US 4 to cast-on and work slipper
US5 for I-cord cuff
Heel wedge (19 rounds)
Actual sock heel wedge is 2.5” in length.
With US4 needles, CO 34 sts using JBMCO w 2 colors:
Using MC, CastOn normally w no slip-knot and Tail yarn over index finger and form 4 sts (2/needle).
Add CC yarn over upper needle and CastOn 2 sts.
(See bottom photos at left)
Then draw the two legs of the MC through the legs of the CC and form 4 sts in MC.

Continue drawing the new color through the legs
of the previous color.
In photo, I’m reaching through the center
of the grey legs to bring the yellow
into position to cast-on.
https://youtu.be/lBBRghe1f6g

CastOn 34 sts w JBMC
Yarn tail over index. New color brought through legs of previous color.
The CO row counts as Row 1 in Chart A.
Follow Chart A for 19 rows increasing to 60 sts.

Work Chart A to form Heel (2.5” in length and height)
Increases are made 2 sts in on right side
and 1 st in on left side
There will be a continuous edge column of MC, CC, MC.

Gauge Testing:
US 2: 8spi, 9.5 rows per in.
US 3: 7.5 spi
US 4: 7 spi, 6.5 rows per in.
Therefore, chose to use US 4.

Size Chart showing length for Shoe Size:
https://kateatherley.com/2017/08/10/foot-size-tables/

Holding Sts for Foot Opening
Chart B: K1, I then knit 29 sts with orange scrap yarn, slipped those orange sts back to left needle and resumed with working yarn (instead of placing the next 29 sts on holder and casting on 29 sts.) 60 sts.

Cont rep of Chart B until 1.75” shorter than foot length
(Completion of 6th checkered “X” of motif)

Foot (36 rounds)
Work foot until it is 7 7/8” from cast-on edge which is 6 repeats of Chart B

Toe Wedge (12rounds + grafting)
Actual sock toe wedge is 2” in length.
Dec alt rounds 4 times; then dec every round for 4 times. (28 sts)
Decreases are 1 stitch end on right side and very end on left side to maintain an edge band of CC sandwich in between MC start on row 1 of Chart and work through two repeats of Chart: K1, SSK, work across to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Set up for final toe decrease:
Rotate work perpendicular as in photo so you are working from right to left edge across toe.
On extra DPN or straight cable needle (same size DPN US4) slip 2 sts before BOR marker (bottom of slipper) and 3 sts after BOR (top of slipper) so the CC column stitch is in middle w a pair of sts on either side that will be decreased.
Holding the extra DPN perpendicular to parallel toe needles, work across the 5 sts: K2tog in MC, k1 in CC, SSK in MC.
Then slip another stitch on each end of the extra DPN so you have a pair of sts on either side of the center CC again.

Grafting in 2 Colors
Last 6 sts, Kitchener Graft is in two colors so thread each color on its own tapestry needle,
the stitches are arranged so that the top single st and bottom 2 stitches are in matching colors in rep sets of MC, CC, MC. Work the MC stitches with the MC yarn, then the CC stitches with the CC yarn and finally bring your MC yarn behind the CC stitch to work the third set of MC stitches. Rep from to work the other sets of sts.
https://kddandco.com/tutorials/two-colour-grafting/
id=9jHdRpOb0P-qIfp7dB4yXJPw4Okw_xmyjb2SYo8TSNIPTe3VDDQcFhadXo-znpKQixNt9xFVDRFTWKg_QWEmWMyH1hT6WTvpEA6ktoCYg6Vldti0wWpXl94SBbZRiTuk-R33XxteGotPJ03i1k8R-Powe6InIxwJPEtnQEuD4EUiOK0bRb853WL6F4r7fl-M&id2=

https://youtu.be/hff-YwcfyPo

https://youtu.be/qhipqdexZxU

I-Cord Cuff Use a larger size needle as Icord can be a little tight.
Pick up sts at foot opening before removing the scrap yarn and knit one round adding extra sts in gap at each side. I knit these sts so they twist at the base.
Icord sts are perpendicular to colorwork stockinette sts so go up one size needle for I-cord, using US 5 DPNs or because this is an I-cord Bindoff and not the standard, unattached I-cord), you can get by without DPN until grafting in the round at the end and can transfer the 4 stitches to be grafted on an extra needle tip with the tip pointing to the right.

I used a Knitting-On to CastOn 4 sts to begin the I-Cord and form sts w twist at base (tips point same direction), slip sts back to L ndl, k3, then use a K2tog TBL for the decrease with the 4th cast on stitch and one original stitch around opening. Don’t need a DPN for I-cord Bindoff (like you do for the standard, unattached I-cord) until grafting in the round at the end and can transfer the 4 stitches to be grafted on an extra needle tip with the tip pointing to the right.
At end, graft last 4 sts to the first 4 sts: “purl-on”1st on needle, pass through behind both legs at the base of first V of I-cord CastOn, then “knit-off” 1st on needle and purl on next sts to repeat.
https://youtu.be/xZvfXSQaF-8
I-cord graft chart:
http://www.lamaisonrililie.com/uploads/2/4/3/4/24344284/i...

I picked up the stitches before I removed the waste yarn and it helped tame the floats. Other way around the issue is the knit a row in one color after the waste yarn before resuming stranded work.
I also like to pick up stitches for a button band before cutting the steek—seems to lessen the stress on the stitches adjacent to the steek section.

Learned techniques on this project:
Magic CastOn in 2 Colors
A More Rounded sock toe (or mitten tip) Method of continuing the decorative 3-stitch edge band
Kate Davis on Grafting w 2 Colors
I-Cord w Grafting in the Round
Adding I-cord to live stitches

JMCO
I’ve linked several videos.
StaciPerry of Very Pink shows how the JMCO looks in a finished toe wedge and her Method is similar to JudyBecker’s when she first published this cast-on in 2006 w half the stitches in reverse mount that you later correct by knitting the first row through the back loop.

Cat Bordhi shows the cast-on’s smooth knit side and the bumpy purl side. She also winds the yarn counterclockwise so the cast-on stitches sit on the needle in the correct orientation.

Sock Mathematician shows how I like to start all LongTail CastOns w positioning yarn in the “sling shot” in left hand w tail yarn over index finger and bring the needle tip down and twist to mount the first stitch without slip knot and so the tail goes around to the outside and over to index finger.
Suzanne shows how to cleanly twist the yarns after the cast-on so the tail is caught as you begin to knit the first row.

KnitPurl Hunter short video shows another way to start the cast-on without a slip knot and then position yarn in left hand.

Roxanne gives history, clear demonstration, and assures you that it won’t matter if you follow other versions that vary in whether the first stitch is on the top or bottom needle and if the yarn is wrapped so stitches are reverse mount or not.

VeryPink: https://youtu.be/GV9UaFgZ6Q0
CatBordhi: https://youtu.be/3ItemF86f90
Sock Mathematician: https://youtu.be/w1WweVpf9k8
Suzanne Bryan: https://youtu.be/j5MaMEfAlew
KnitPurlHunter: https://youtu.be/gkyd3nq3Yn8
Roxanne Richards: https://youtu.be/KEnk-Kl513A

JMCO as a Provisional CastOn
Roxanne Richards: https://youtu.be/ROx-9OY_xGg

Suzanne’s Provisional Caston with scrap strand yarn
https://youtu.be/-CfZ8b_YNuQ

CastOns for top down socks
Suzanne’s Tubular CastOn in the Round starting w crochet chain
https://youtu.be/daebO9c5qDo

Suzanne’s German Twisted aka Old Norwegian
She shows and compares the German Twisted CastOn to the Traditional LongTail CastOn
https://youtu.be/RlE_diUDPkE

Rox’s Alternating LongTail CastOn for 2x2 Rib
https://youtu.be/QT_Z6u7nyAs

Foot circumference: 9”
Foot length: 10.375”
Toe length: 2”
Ankle height: 2.675”
Heel diagonal: 13”
Ankle circumference: 9.5”
Leg circumference at 10” from floor: 11.5”