Hat and sweater made with alpaca tweed.
Scot did his first XC Night Flight w Lift Academy. He said it is quite cold in the cockpit and was glad to have an alpaca sweater!

Zipper Installations
Crochet zipper onto crochet edge
https://youtu.be/YPm_nG40T4E

Eunny Jang installing zipper using Techknitter’s Method
https://youtu.be/RnNFOQucals

TechKnitters Method of installing zipper w crochet chain along tape:
https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2012/10/zipper-in-knitw...

http://www.chicknits.com/ttizipper.shtml
https://www.tanisfiberarts.com/blog/2016/8/zipper-tutorial

https://youtu.be/21xeuYggYoU

Suzanne fix for enlarged knit st. before a purl in ribbing
https://youtu.be/R
While in Norfolk yesterday, I finally found the style of zipper Scot wanted for his sweater (He wanted a particular metal, contrast color, and zipper tab designstuck_out_tongue_winking_eye!).
When I knit at home, I have to put up with Molly head-butting my hand. She watches for me to lay the knitting down; then, she is instantly on top, nuzzling into the wool. Molly would make a great sheep-cat. I was patiently waiting as she was checking things out—but then she settled in. I tried to entice her away with the little wooden crochet hook.

Schematics and Sizing
I like to have a schematic for reference, so below are standard measurements for men’s half zipped Raglan sweaters size 42-44 from this schematic:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0711/5132/1403/files/PA...1uctmn9_gcl_auNTM2ODIzNDQ4LjE3MzExODM1Mjg._gaMTk1MjY0MDQ5MS4xNzMxMTgzNTI4_ga_FNZYKNERBSMTczMTE4MzUyNy4xLjEuMTczMTE4NTE1Ni42MC4wLjE1NTk0Mjk4MzA._ga_PXD53EW8L5MTczMTE4MzUyOC4xLjEuMTczMTE4NTE1Ni42MC4xLjIxMTQyNzM3OTE.

https://www.yarnspirations.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sit...

The Henley patterns from which I borrowed the schematic, suggests anywhere from 2”-10” positive ease. Check how much ease you like by measuring a sweater with the fit you want.
Typically I like 3” positive ease in the body and 2”-3”positive ease in the sleeves.

Body measurements:
Chest circumference: 38.5”
Arm circumference: 13”
Wrist circumference: 7”
Target Length: 26”
Jeans waist x inseam: 34x34”

Collar: 3” collar (6” folded over)
Zipper: 9” heavy bronze metal on brown weave.
8.5” from neck to underarm line
14.75” from underarm to beginning of hem;
Underarm is 17.25” from CastOn edge
Back is 27”at neck/rib transition and bottom CO edge.
2.75” hem, 2.75”cuffs, 3” neckband
Sleeve circumference: 16.75”
Wrist circumference: 9.5”
Sleeve Length from underarm 18.12”

Son grew since getting the sweater 4.5 years ago.
During summer 2024, added 2.5” to sleeve length (16 more rounds of 54 sts using US7 to match gauge I had originally with US6) Decrease 2 sts before ribbing.
Start ribbing at 17.5” from underarm. Work cuff to 2.75” using US5 for 25 rounds.

Body w 3” positive ease: 5.5spi x (38.5 + 3”) = 228 sts. So, at my gauge with this yarn, I will follow directions for the large size.
Sleeve sts: 5.5 spi x 16.5” = 92.
Decrease sleeve from 92 sts (@armhole) to 52 sts (@wrist) before starting the ribbing.

I’ll knit the neck ribbing and body same size needle (US6) so the I-cord doesn’t show a change in gauge along zipper opening.
I’ll go down in needle size on the ribbing at the bottom and on the cuffs

Adjusting for difference in yarn amount between stockinette and rib or garter stitch hem causing edge to flip:
http://thecraftsessions.com/blog/2016/8/12/how-to-stop-he...

Beginning the Sweater
On Jan 7, I casted on 110sts on US 6 + 3-stitch I-cord each end
https://ysolda.com/blogs/journal/crochet-provisional-cast-on
Continued US 6 for sweater body
Finished sweater sometime before February 10. Knitted the double length 6” collar three times with three different needle sizes before settling w US6 for the density of Ribbed fabric.

I cord Edge: WS:slip 3 wyif, p2k2, purl 5;
RS:slip 3 wyib, k2, p2, knit 5.
Repeat until collar is 6” in length for double layer.
Note Knit Icord loosely so it doesn’t shorten vertically compared to adjacent body.

Knitted sweater onto extra long cable on completion of 4th repeat of Raglan increases to check the large size. Went on to complete 5 repeats of Raglan Increase ending on WS

Separate the Sleeves
Each skein = 164 yds or 150 m
Used 494 yds before separating the sleeves
Total sts on needle before separating sleeves = 108 (back), 111 (front), 87 per sleeve.
After knitting up to and slipping first marker (which is new beginning of round), slip next 87 sts onto 14” cable. Then backwardsloop caston 4 sts onto right needle and resume knitting to next sleeve. 219 + 4 CastOn + 4 CastOn =227 sts on body.
End of 1st skein: after 1st Raglan Increase Set
End of 2nd skein after 3.5 Raglan sets;
6.75” from base of collar
End of 4th skein: 14.5” from base of collar
End of 5th skein: 19.5” from base of collar
Start ribbing 23” from base of collar
End of 6th skein 23.25” from base of collar

Knit bottom 2x2 rib for 2.75” w US4.

Compared different Bindoffs w the 2 x 2 Ribbing

1.Tubular Bindoff after converting 2x2 into 1x1 by picking up purl stitch from behind w tip of Right needle.
https://revknits.wordpress.com/2009/05/05/a-smooth-ending/

1. Elizabeth Zimmerman Sewn Bindoff

2. Kitchener Double Ribbed Bindoff (stretchiest of the 3) https://www.vilnonis.net/the-neatest-tubular-bind-off

3. Standard Bindoff in Pattern

Top bindoff photo showing red cable along the top is the tubular Bindoff
I didn’t like the lean of the knit stitch when converted from cuff’s 2x2 rib to 1x1 rib for bind off.

The other Bindoff photos show both the Double Ribbed Kitchener and the Bindoff in Pattern in same photo with Kitchener on top. One photo compares the edges and other photo shows the bindoffs from the front. The Kitchener Double Ribbed Bindoff was the stretchiest of all three.
Son liked the feel and look of the Bindoff in Pattern so that is the one I used for his sweater.

Sleeves
Have 87 Sleeve sts on holding cable and casted off 4 sts.
Picking up underarm sts to avoid holes
https://youtu.be/8K-IsMdTHK0
Picking up sleeve sts with faux seam
https://youtu.be/euTp37dlhlM

87 sleeve stitches are held on cable. At the gap between the sleeve and cast off underarm sts, there are two stretched bars that are connected to each other through a central stitch. We will be picking up these gap bar strand and decreasing them with the neighboring stitches. Decreases will lean toward the gap with the back stitch being reverse mounted to tuck underneath the other stitch. After sleeve sts. and before the 4 castOff sts, pick up the 2 gap stitches with second gap stitch being reverse mounted. Take new working yarn and pick up loops of working yarn (without knitting) under the double bar at the top of the next 5 Vs (the 4 cast off sts form 4.5 sts when turning work upside down, forming 5 Vs). There are another set of gap stitches. Pick up first gap st onto right needle and pull right needle through, sliding sts into the cable. Pick up the 2nd gap st and place onto left needle tip with a reverse amount and K2tog with first sleeve stitch. Knit in pattern across sleeve until last sleeve st before the 2 stretched bars. Reverse mount last sleeve stitch place on left needle and knit it together with first gap st through back loops (SSK). Reverse mount 2nd gap stitch and K2tog with first underarm stitch. Knit across to last underarm stitch, reverse mount and SSK with final gap stitch.

91 sleeve sts decreased to 52 sts at wrist= 40 sts to be decreased.
18” Total sleeve length - 2.75” Cuff before starting sleeve decrease = 15” over which to make 20 decrease round.
15” x 7 r.p.i. = 105 rounds
105 rounds devided by 20 decreases = 5 rounds.

Knit 5 rounds then decrease 2 sts every 5th round.
Original pattern has Icord cuff therefore uses a more gradual decrease of every 6 rnds.

Cuffs (52sts) Switch to US 4. Work k2p2 ribbing for 2.75”.
Bindoff in pattern.

Most Guild members like sleeve decreases to be more visible and lean away from seam markers: Dec rnds: K until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1, slm, k1 ssk, work to end of rnd.

Preparing and Installing the Zipper

Forming Chain Stitches on Zipper Ribbon:
With zipper face up, poke knit picker through zipper fabric and pull up loop of yarn. Size the loop on needle the same size used to knit the body of the sweater. Then pass knit picker through loop and through zipper fabric and pull next loop up through zipper fabric and through the previous loop to form the first chain.
Instead of poking the fragile knit-picker at locations to match distance of purl bumps along back, I followed the weave of the zipper ribbon so the knit-picker could pass through the tough zipper fabric more gently and consistently. Then I took account of the different gauges when seaming in the zipper chain stitches to the purl bumps near the I-cord.

Seaming the Zipper Ribbon to the Sweater:
I had the right side of the sweater face up and the right side of the zipper with the chain stitches face up laying next to it on the table. I folded the I-cord edge so I could see the column of purl bumps immediately adjacent to the I-cord. I went through a purl, then through two chain stitches on the zipper ribbon and continued through the next two purl bumps and next two chain stitches according to gauge until the end.

Bound off the provisional collar edge to stitches at neckline.
Stitch edges to sandwich the zipper.

Finished the sweater for my oldest son just in time for the cold front coming in tonight in the OuterBanks.

New techniques: using provisional cast-on on folded down collar done after zipper installation to sandwich the zipper.
I-cord edges to tuck zipper away
Another different underarm technique

Jack: Chest: 37.5”
Upper arm 12”
Under arm to wrist bone: 18.5”
Neck to underarm 8”
Total length from neck edge (before Rib) 25”
CastOn with US6 for Rib; use US7 for body
9” zipper
The first time I knit this pattern (dark teal), I used provisional CastOn then followed up with chain stitch on inside to prevent stretching as linked above. This time I used standard Long Tail CastOn because the CastOn edge will provide more structure. Also closed the fold over hem by sewing the edge in instead of knitting live stitch edges together because knitting the the hem closed makes it more likely to flip if used on neck or bottom hem or hat hems. This flipping phenomenon of knitted closed hem is less likely to happen with smaller circumference of sleeve cuff, or sock cuffs, or mitten cuffs.
https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/12/sewing-shut-hem...
Bridge transition between stockinette and ribbing
https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/03/where-ribbing-e...

Ribbed neck band w I-cord edge on both side Street:
CastOn 116 knitting flat
Begin w WS. Every row: slip 3, work 2x2 Rib, end w working last 5 sts in purl(WS) or knit (RS) for 3”.
One row purl on RS for turning row. Then continue Rib for 3”. Knit I-cord very loosely so it doesn’t shorten vertically along edge!
Change needle tips to one size larger (US7) for sweater body.
Setup Row for Raglan Sleeves
(WS): sl3wyif, P 17, k1, p1, PM, p1, k1, P 13, k1, p1,PM, p1, k1, P 34, k1, p1,PM, p1, k1, P 13, k1, p1,PM, p1, k1,P 20.
All Raglan rows RS and WS begin with slip 3.
Raglan increase rows are RS (odd rows 1-13)
Fabric grows outward from seam so lean increases away from seam. Whereas for the sleeves the fabric decreases in toward the seam so lean sleeve decreases toward the seam.
RS: Slip 3, begin w k3, end w k6 and work 6x1 Rib
At Raglan markers: after last purl, k (0-6), m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, k (0-6)
Raglan even rows 2-12: work even maintaining pattern
Raglan Row 14 at raglan markers, k1, p1, sm, p1, k1.
After knitting 9” from folded edge close zipper tab
To begin working in the round, tink back (take out) the last three stitches of the last row onto a dpn. (These will be the right-front icord edge stitches.) Then knit the right-edge stitches together with the left-edge stitches w right-edge held behind. RS facing, hold the DPN with the three stitches behind and parallel to the first three stitches of the next row, and hold these in your left hand.

Number Raglan Increases for Different Sizes
X-Small: 3 sets + 5 sts either side of marker and CastOn K1, P 1, K1 underarm to maintain rib pattern.
94 front, 91, 2(70) sts
Plan Small size for his younger brother wanting sweater dimensions of chest37”, arm12”: 4 sets + 3 sts either side of marker 101, 98, 2(77) sts.
Medium size (40”) Four sets of Raglan Increases completing 6x1 rib + 6 sts either side marker before purl sts.
108 front sts, 83 sleeve, 104 back sts. If doing a 2 x 2 sleeve cuff, rearrange sts so you have mult 4 + 2 sts per sleeve.
Made Large size 46” for his older brother: 5 full sets of rib in Raglan increases + 1 st either side of marker and CastOn 4 knit sts underarm to maintain Rib pattern
Plan extra larges for my husband: X-Lg: 5 sets + 6 sts either side of marker (121, 118, 2(97)) and CastOn 1 purl stitch under arm to maintain Rib pattern
2XLg: 6 full sets of Rib + 3 sts either side of marker (129, 126, 2 105)) and CastOn zero sts underarm to maintain Rib pattern.