Jack’s actual measurements:
Chest: 41.75”
Neck width: 6.25”
Armhole/ Yoke depth 8 1/8” (wrapped string around chest at arm pit then measured another string going from chest string over shoulder and taking half)
Crossback: 16”
Sleeve length 22” (1.5” longer than wrist bone)
Upper arm circumference: 12.75”
Wrist circumference: 6.5”
Fist circumference for cuff to stretch over: 8.75”
Hand length: 7.5”
Foot circumference 10”
Foot length: 10 5/8”
Head circumference: 22 5/8”

My son gained 4” in his chest circumference in 2 1/2 years! He was on three swim teams last year and been working out this year w swimming andXC running to prepare for either USNA orUSAFA. This became my main project during swim meets.

Sweater looks like it will be similar to the US Navy Submarine Sweater and the sweater in James Bond in photos to the left.

This sweater’s measurements
Body Width: 21”
Width between armholes” 16.5”
Back neck width: 6.75”
Stockinette St Epaulette: 5” long x 8.25”across
Arm hole depth: 5.5”+4.124” = 9.625”
Back panel total length: 28”
Body length from underarm to bottom edge: 18”
Depth from center front neck to underarm: 7.25”
Depth from center back raised neck to underarm: 10.25”
Sleeve Cuff width: 8.125”
Sleeve width underarm: 14.125”
Unfolded cuff sleeve length: 22”
Sleeve length before st st: 28.125” +5.25” extension
Sleeve cap from underarm to st st: 6.25”
Upper sleeve width before st st shoulder ext: 5.875”
Collar: 1.25”

Working with 100% alpaca fingering weight yarn from Denmark that my husband found on his own and fell in love with. It has a long fiber in bright amber color spun with the darker heathered wool.

Making two versions of this sweater:
1st Sweater:
L Crewneck for middle son, Jack. Size 3 in body and decrease to size 2 during underarm shaping.

2nd Sweater:
XL zippered neck w taller collar for husband .
Husband tried on Jack’s sweater in photos showing the back of the sweater (initially followed size 3 throughout body and shoulders). He likes the fit above the armholes: around upper sleeves and chest stitch count: 2(173+125).
He would like more ease in forearms and abdomen. I’ll cast on for size 4 and decrease to size 3 in underarm shaping.

I worked up a sample swatch in the Channel Rib and in Stockinette Stitch.
Gauge in StSt: 32 sts & 42 rows in 4”
Gauge in Channel Rib: 39.6 sts & 64 rows in 4”
221 sts 22.5”
93 sts = 9.25”

The Cartridge Rib will eventually draw in as you work more rows: After an inch, it starts out measuring 26”. 221 sts/ 26”=8.5 spi. As I worked more rows, it draws in to almost 10 spi and 22” across.

Yarn Usage
Back and Front Panels each used 4 1/2 skeins of 50g.
216+224=440g.
Each sleeve used 3 skeins.

Swatching with stretchiness of Cartridge Rib
https://elizabethsmithknits.com/morgan-tips/

Modified Back to minimize excess fabric at shoulders
LTCO 221 sts using 2.75mm needles (US2)
Work to 18” ending on WS row. (137slstrows, 55 ribs)
Armhole Shaping: BO 12, then 3 sts twice (185sts rem)
Work decr row 10 times (165 sts rem, 41 ribs, 16.5” wide)
In shaping the armholes, 7 ribs and 2.75” were removed.
Work until armhole measures 5.5” (43 sl sts)
Shoulder extension bindoff 48 sts (12 ribs) for 5” across.
Neck width: 6.5”. (17 ribs across=69 sts rem)
On sleeves, work Stockinette shoulder extension to 5”.
(50 rows)
Summary of Stitch Count: 221 sts to 165 sts to 69 sts.

Original counts resulted in excess fabric at shoulders
Decr from 221 sts to 173 sts rem, 43 ribs, 17.25” across.
Armhole length 6” 47 sl sts + 4” epaulettes =10”
Shoulder extension BO 52 sts each end.
(69 sts, 17 ribs rem across; Decr 13 ribs 5.25” each side)
Work 4” from shoulder ext cast-off. BO in pat. (30 sl sts).
Neck width is 7” and 17 ribs across.
In shaping the armholes, 6 ribs and 2.25” were removed
Armhole depth: 10” and 49 sl sts
Cast off to accommodate shoulder ext, removed 13 ribs and 5.25”.
Summary of Stitch Count: 221 sts to 173 sts to 69 sts.

Front Panel
Work same as back to 1” after saddle shoulder bind off.

Left and Right Front Shoulders 17 sts each. Front center BO 35 sts.
Shape neck edge: BO 3sts, then 2 sts, then 1 st 10 times
Note
Used Sloped BO instead of stepped BO and work the slope bind off immediately on right shoulder after binding the 35 center sts instead of working the extra row in the instructions for smoother edge.
When 3 sts left on RS, use SK2P and bring yarn tail through the rem loop.

Sleeves:
Cast-on 93 sts with LTCO knitwise. (23 ribs=8.125”)
Start 1st Row Cartridge Rib pat on the purl side of LTCO.
Work cartridge rib for 5”.
Sleeve Increases start on 40th sl st row
Work Incr Row every 8th Row 12 times then every 6th Row 22 times. Total sleeve width: 161 sts. Sleeve has 150 slsts after final increase row. 19.5” in length. End of 2nd skein.
Start sleeve shaping after sleeve measures 22” (161 sts, 168 slst rows)
Sleeve Shaping at underarms: Cast off 12sts beg of next two rows, then 3 sts at the beg of next four rows. 125 sts
Then 1 st each end every 4th row 17 times, then every RS row 13 times. 65 sts.
First pass of 217th sl st (ie RS row of 217th sl st), don’t create sl st which just shows on WS to make transition into the shoulder extension neater.

Saddle Shoulder Extension:
Work Stockinette St for 5.25” ending on WS.
56 rows above last purl bump of Cartridge Rib. 488 rows
Bind off sts.

Finished all sweater pieces May 7, 2023.

Mattress seamed.
On sides, place markers every 20 slip sts. Start with figure 8 Then at left of seam, smile st below selvedge running strand and a little buried in edge; for the right side of seam, umbrella st above the selvedge running strand and toward the slipped sts.
Edge to edge, place markers at quarter distances and figure gauge difference between Stockinette and the Ribbed pattern.

Collar yarn usage: 15 g
Use smaller US1.5 needle. P/u and knit 134 sts:
Back bind off edge: 52 sts
Saddle shoulders: 11 sts
Front triangles: 14 sts
Front bind off edge: 32 sts
Double-layer neck: knit 1x1 rib for 2.5” and fold in half
Used 1 size smaller US1.5 knit for 1.25” (16 rnds) and switched to another size smaller US1 to knit inner layer.
Note
Bind off knitwise instead of in pattern so you have a nice flat chain edge facing front after folding it inward. Fold to inside and stitch down.

§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§

Worked the front panel of Jack’s sweater while Jack and Dan practiced for and participated in Conference, Regional and State Swim Meets. Jack made All Conference and was the only male swimmer on his team to have solo events as well as relay events at State.

Cartridge Rib (flat):
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1 pwise wyb, k3, sl 1 pwise wyf; rep from to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 pwise wyb, k1, sl 1 pwise wyf, k3; rep from to last 3 sts, sl 1 pwise wyf, k2.
Rep Rows 1–2 for patt.

I swatched and figured out how to work the Cartridge Rib stitch in the round instead of seaming them. At the same time, I also used the Helical Method because of the garter st base. See separate project page for a Mount Robson Sweater with a zippered neck for the neck.

So collar lays flat against neck, knit inner layer with smaller needles or decrease one st at each shoulder every third round (~0.5”), purl one round and knit inner layer increasing same rate as the decreases before.

§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§§
References on helical knitting and choosing directionality during shaping:
https://rochesterknitting.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/...
Video:
https://youtu.be/ZxRXhokrcEQ

Modifying armhole shaping:
https://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter04/FEATwin04TBP.html

https://knitty.com/ISSUEwinter05/FEATwin05TBP.html

https://www.interweave.com/article/knitting/design-set-in...

https://tkga.org/article/set-in-sleeves-by-celia-mcadam-c...

https://tkga.org/wp-content/uploads/issue_archives/2013/S...

When you are increasing AFTER a stitch marker, you create new stitches that slant out leftward from the rest of the work. I prefer to use m1L in this context.

When you are increasing BEFORE a stitch marker, you create new stitches that slant out rightward from the rest of the work. I prefer to use m1R in this context.

https://tkga.org/wp-content/uploads/issue_archives/2013/M...

Short Row Sloped Bind Off
https://youtu.be/tYzRL2ETCME

Slip Stitch Sloped Bind Off
https://verypink.com/2015/12/02/sloped-bind-off/

Comparing Stretch and Flare of 20 Bind Offs
https://www.susannawinter.net/post/updated-comparison-of-...

Original counts resulted in excess fabric at shoulders
Decr from 221 sts to 173 sts rem, 43 ribs, 17.25” across.
In shaping the armholes, 6 ribs and 2.25” were removed
Armhole length 6” 47 sl sts + 4” epaulettes =10”
Shoulder extension BO 52 sts (13ribs, 5.25”) each end.
Rem 69sts (17 rib) rem across center.
Work center section 4”. (30 sl sts).
Neck width is 7” and 17 ribs across.
Summary of Stitch Count: 221 sts to 173 sts to 69 sts.