I designed and knitted this Aran Sweater for the third level of the Master Hand Knitting Program.

I ordered my yarn from Kerry Woolen Mill, which is the last surviving tradition mill in the county Kerry of which I was named. Here is a lovely video of the mill:
https://youtu.be/H4qul3JVfQk

The mill was bought by the Eadie family in 1904. They had previously been woollen manufacturers for many years in Fermanagh and Scotland. Kerry woollen mills is managed by the fourth generation of the Eadie family today.

Making Aran sweater for my oldest son
3” of positive ease in body
Body measurements:
Chest circumference: 39.5”
Arm circumference: 13”
Wrist circumference: 7”
Body Length from neck bone to desired length: 26.5”
Jeans waist x inseam: 34x34”

Target sweater measurements:
Chest circumference: 43” (2x135 sts)
Total length: 27.5”
Body length from bottom CO edge to underarm: 17.5”
Sleeve circumference: 16”
Cuff Circumference: 8” (52 sts, increase 10 sts to set up cables)
Sleeve Length from underarm to cuff cast on edge:18.5”
Raglan vertical depth: 9.5” (9 honeycombs)
Back of neck between raglan seams: 7” (45 sts, Decrease 10 sts, 35 sts BO)
Neck drop in front: 3” (22 sts BO in center, decrease 4 sts so BO 18 center sts; pick up 18 sts along each side)
Sleeve cap: 2” (14 sts, Decrease 2, 12 sts BO)
Cuff and Bottom Rib Band: 2.75”
Neck Rib Band: 1.5”
Neck Circumference: 16” (108 sts)

Gauge in Diamond Cable (US6)24 and 29 rows in 4”/10mm
Gauge in single rib (US5) 22 sts x 28 rows in 4”/ 10mm

Body w 3” positive ease: 6 x 22”= 132 + 2 selvedge sts= 134 sts. Add another st on body and sleeves total stitch count so Irish moss maintains pattern at seams. Total body sts= 135 sts.
Sleeves w 2.5”positive ease= 15.5”
6spi x 15.5” ~92 sts +2 selvedge stitches= 94sts.
Upper sleeve stitch count is 94 sts.
Cuff: 52 sts
Raglan vertical depth: 9.5 x 7.3=69 rows (9 complete honeycomb)

Swatched ribbing w US5, cables with US 6 and 7.
Will use US 5 for ribbing and US 7 for body and sleeves.

Different Shoulder Construction
https://knitty.com/ISSUEfall04/FEATfall04TBP.html

July 22-Aug 10:
Back panel: CO 116 sts in alt LTCO (US 5). (K1, p1; rep from to last 2 sts, k2) Then Single Rib and four 5-st spacer columns for 20 rows for 3”.

5st Spacer: RS: p1, k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, p1.
WS: k1, p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, k1

Initial 116 sts: BOR: selvedge st, Irish Moss 10sts, 5st Spacer, 3sts (for Wave), 5st Spacer, 13 sts (for Diamond), 5st Spacer, 33 sts (for center panel consisting of three HC 5st, two RC 3sts, and four 3st Spacer), 5st Spacer, 13sts (for Diamond), 5st Spacer, 3 sts (for Wave), 5st Spacer, Irish Moss 9sts, selvedge st. Stitch count is worked out so the stitch follow single rib without further adjustment.

Cable Set Up Row (WS):
Wave section (Chart A): Pfb, k1, LLPI
Diamond section: ( P1, k1) 3x, RLPI, k1, RLPI, (k1, p1) twice.
HC sections: (LLPI, k1) twice, RLPI
RC4 sections: RLPI, k1, p1
Wave section (Chart D): LLPI, k1, pfb
After Cable Set-Up Increase Row switch to US 7( needles.
Total Body Sts: 135 sts: BOR: selvedge st, Irish Moss (10sts), 5-st Spacer col, Wave Cable w Bobble (5 sts), 5-st Spacer Col, Diamond (15 sts), 5-st Spacer Col, Honeycomb (8 sts), 3-st Spacer Col, RC4, 3-st Spacer Col, HC 8sts, 3-st Spacer Col, RC4, HC 8sts, 5-st Spacer Col, Diamond 15sts, 5-st Spacer Col, Wave Cable w Bobble 5sts, 5-st Spacer Col, Irish Moss 9sts, selvedge st.

Irish Moss:Righthand Side w BOR:
Row 1 (RS): Selvedge st, (k1, p1) 5x
Row 2 (WS): Sm, (k1, p1) 5x, selvedge st
Row 3: Selvedge st, (p1, k1) 5x
Row 4: Sm, (p1, k1) 5x

Irish Moss Lefthand Side
Row 1 (RS): Sm, (p1, k1) 4x, p1, selvedge st
Row 2 (WS): Selvedge st, (k1, p1) 4x, k1, sm
Row 3: Sm, (k1, p1) 4x, k1, selvedge st
Row 4: Selvedge st, (p1, k1) 4x, p1, sm

Bobble St
Kfb twice, Turn.
Sl1, p3. Turn.
Sl1, k3. Turn.
Sl1, p3. Turn.
Sl 1, k3. Alternatively pass sts over same st as shown by Ginny Dillon. https://tkga.org/wp-content/uploads/issue_archives/1999/G...
Number the 4 sts left to right. Pass 3rd st over 2nd st; pass 1st st over 2nd st; pass 4th st over 2nd st.
Wrap working yarn completely around Bobble to keep the bobble tidy and avoid holes, pull the working yarn tightly before going on as shown by Arenda Holladay. https://youtu.be/zspSrPwQ76A

Stitches used:
2/1 LPC
2/1 RPC
2/1 LC
2/1 RC
2/2 LC
2/2 RC
2/3 RC
Ptbl

RLPI: Right Lifted Purl-side Increase
https://nimble-needles.com/stitches/how-to-knit-the-left-...
Byif; with RN tip, lift right leg of purl bump at base of stitch on LN from bottom up onto LN. Because leading leg of loop is behind the needle, purl through back loop.

LLPI: Left Lifted Purl-side Increase
https://nimble-needles.com/stitches/how-to-knit-the-right...
Purl stitch you want to make increase on, keep if and with LN, lift up left leg from two rows down (2nd purl bump down), since leading leg of loop is in front of needle, purl into front loop.

Purl Front and Back on purl side: Purl into front leg of next stitch on LN, keep stitch on LN, insert RN tip through back leg, left to right and purl.

RLI: Right Lifted Increase. With RN lift right leg from one row below onto LN, leading leg of loop is in front of needle so work stitch in pat through front loop.

LLI: Left Lifted Increase. Work next stitch on end of LN, with RN tip lift left leg from stitch 2 rows below. Leading leg of loop is in behind needle so work stitch in Pat through backu loop.

Construction notes:

1. Maintain a k1 selvedge stitch on each end.
2. Add extra column of sts up RIght side at BOR to maintain Irish Moss pattern across side seams. This extra column of stitches continues up the right side from bottom rib, Raglan shaping and through the neck rib on body and sleeves.
3. To compensate for cable flare, cast on fewer sts and increase sts on last row of ribbing (Cable Set Up on WS Row 3 on charts) before cable starts on Row 4 of all charts.

Work body until piece measures 17.5”
Four full repeats (Rows 4-27) of Diamond and Wave + Rows 4-11 once more.
Thirteen full repeats of Center Panel Rows 4-11 forming 13 full honeycombs.

Start the raglan shaping (w BO 6 sts at beg of two rows) on Diamond Chart Row 14 (RS), which is also the crossing row at the beginning of the 14th honeycomb. (123 sts)
Decrease every RS Row: K1, SSP, work pat to last three sts, K2tog, k1.
WS: P2, work pat, to last 2 sts, p2.
(For front panel, 79 sts rem at 19 full honey comb and bind off center 23 sts.)
Rep these two rows until 65 sts rem, ending on RS row.

Decrease every row (WS): P1, p2tog, work pat to last 3 sts, SSP, p1. (This beg on the WS Row before the cable crossing that completes the 21st honeycomb.)
SSP: sl kw twice, trans back to LN. P2togtbl
(RS): Same as above.
Decrease every row until 45 sts rem
(Last Decrease Row is a RS Row where Cables cross to complete 22nd honeycomb.)
WS: Decrease same number of sts over each cable as you added at the beg to compensate for cable flare. 36 sts rem. 70 rows after the 12 sts bind off.

July 23, 2021 Family trip to Mackinac Island.
Oldest son played the piano in the Geranium Room of the Grand Hotel.
He is wearing the vest I made for Level 2.
The Aran Sweater project was carried in the backpack and brought with me everywhere on the island. Scot made the nostepinne in the photo from burled wood.
This is the first year for middle son to join his older brother in lifeguarding— when he heard there was a shortage of lifeguards this summer, he immediately went through the forty hours of certifications and training.

August 12-27:
Front Panel design and raglan decreases same as back.
Depth of neck will be 3 honeycombs. After completing honeycomb 19. Work the following WS binding off the central 22 sts and decreasing same number of sts added for cable flare. 18 sts bound off. 28 sts rem left of neck opening and 29 sts rem right of neck opening.

Front neck shaping:
Continue Ragland shaping same as back panel while at the same time shape neck opening by decreasing one stitch on either side of neck, one stitch in from neck edge on every row five times, starting and ending on a RS Row. Then decrease one stitch on each side one stitch in from neck edge every other RS row three times. 3 sts rem on right side of sweater and 4 sts rem on left side of sweater.
On front panel, the Raglan decreases increase to every row when there are 15 sts on left of neck opening and 14 sts on right of neck opening at the start of WS Row.
Bind off rem sts. 70 rows after the 12-sts bind off.

Neck edge decrease rows:
RS Row: work across until last 3
sts before neck opening, k2tog, k1, leave
yarn. At left side of neck opening, begin a second ball of yarn and K1, ssk, work across to end, following Raglan shaping.
WS Row: work across in est pat to last 3 sts,
SSP, p1. After neck opening, using the original working yarn, p1, p2tog, work across in est pat to end.

Aug 28:
Sleeves:
Tried fit of cuff circumference with a strip of ribbing, and Scot prefers 52 sts Cuff
With smaller needles, CO 52 sts, w alt LTCO (co kw, co pw; rep from 25 times, co 2 knitwise).

Cuff Ribbing WS Row after cast on: P2, k1, p1; on next 43 sts, work rows 1&2 of sleeve chart; preSet-up increase, (p1, k1) twice, p1.
RS Row: (K1, p1) twice, p1. On next 43 sts, work Sleeve Chart, k1, p1, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 & 2 of Sleeve Chart 9 more times ending on RS Row.
Layout in sleeve ribbing R to L: 5 sts for 1 stockinette selvedge st and Irish Moss St, pm, 5-st spacer, 5 sts for HC, 5-st spacer, 13 st for Diamond, 5-st spacer, 5 st for HC, 5 st spacer, pm, 4 sts for Irish Moss St and 1 stockinette selvedge st.
Single rib w 5-st Spacer columns for 20 rows ending on Starting on WS after CO and ending on RS

Cable Compensating IncreasingRow 3 on Diamond and Honey Comb Charts WS: Work in est Pat to after first 5-st Spacer, (LLPI, p1)twice, RLPI, 5 st Spacer, (p1, k1) twice, p2, RLPI, p1, RLPI, (k1, p1) twice, 5-st Spacer, (LLPI, p1) twice, RLPI, 5-st Spacer, work in pat to end. 60 sts. Change to larger needles (US 7)

Sleeve Increases: increase 1 stitch on each end 1 stitch in from edge every 6th row, maintaining Irish Moss St.
108 rows x 7.3 rip = 14.7945”
Increase Row (RS): K1, RLI while maintaining Irish Moss St to m, Sm, work sleeve chart, Sm, work Irish Moss St (1st Moss section has an extra st column to maintain Moss pattern over seam) to last 2 sts, LLI maintaining Moss st pat, k1.
Cont in Pat as est, inc one st every 6th Row until you reach 94 sleeve sts including Selvedge sts.
94 sts R to L: 22 st Moss, 5st Spacer, 8 st HC, 5st spacer, 15 st Diamond, 5 st spacer, 8 st HC, 5 st spacer, 21 st Moss.
Work straight until you reach approx 19” (15 full HC). Beg raglan shaping on Row 4 of charts on a RS Row.
Raglan: BO 6 sts at beg of next two rows. 82 sts rem.
Then decrease a st on each side, one st in from edge on every RS Row until 15 sts rem including (13 sts + 2 Selvedge sts). 70 rows after 12 sts bind off.
Decr Row (RS): K1, ask, work in Pat as est to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Ending on RS Row. 14 sts rem
On WS Row Decrease for cable flare and BO.
Bind-off Rows, WS: Bindoff purlwise, 4 sts, p2tog, 1-st, SSP, 5 sts.

Sep 2: Started second sleeve.

So happy oldest son came to visit during his fall break from college—18 hours away. I was able to check the length of the sleeves before starting the Raglan decreases on them.
He showed his hand-turned pens at a couple of art shows and made me a new nostepinne. He did some sailing and surf fishing.
Sep 9: start Raglan shaping on sleeves
Sep 10 finished first sleeve and mattress seamed the underarm and raglan edges of one sleeve to front and back panels.

Neck band smaller needle
Check ribbing at base of sweater to compare ribbing gauge to cable panel gauges
Start at back of left sleeve cap as—left side as if wearing.
Sleeve cap (12-2 Selvedge sts): Pick up and knit 10 sts
Front diagonal: on the 22 rows, pick up and knit 18 sts
Front center Pick up and knit 18 sts.
Front diagonal: Same as above.
Sleeve cap: same as above.
Back neck (36-2 Selvedge sts): Pick up and knit 34 sts.
Neck 108 sts. Work single rib for 3” fold in and seam to inside. To make double row of chain stitch on inside, bind off knitwise and seam next to selvedge stitch.
Sep 17 Finished seaming the sides and sleeves.
Sweater is finished. (It took a total of 8 weeks + 1 day)
I reknitted half the back panel three times trying different cables or because I came up with a new design idea and I reworked the Raglan decreases and neck opening twice.
Was working against the clock. Finished just in time to be able to take photos of my oldest son wearing it to submit with the sweater. Son was returning to college this weekend— 18 hours away.

However I think having a digital tablet for storing and viewing tutorials and patterns is darn close to a necessity these days.

The great thing about an Amazon Fire tablet is you can also watch videos, read or listen to books, and even use apps like…

​

KnitCompanion • Free (with in-app purchases)​
There are very few essential knitting apps, but this might be one of them.

It allows you to import PDFs and track your progress through a pattern.

There’s chart tracking, and even video tutorials as well.

Plus they have a library of patterns that have been optimized for KnitCompanion to give you the best experience possible

Blocking Pins Research

Regular steel is composed of iron and carbon, which means it commonly rusts due to oxidation.

However, stainless steel does not rust because of its high chromium levels (10 to 30%). Chromium oxidizes faster than iron and forms a chromium oxide layer on the surface, which prevents the formation of rust.

In addition to chromium, stainless steel also contains a significant amount of nickel (6 to 26%), which also prevents rust and corrosion in most atmospheric conditions.

There are different grades of stainless steel 304 is common but 316 is more expensive and more resistant to rust. Cheaper pins are attracted to magnets and will likely rust.
A standard stainless steel pin will be more rust resistant than a nickel-coated stainless steel pin, as the inherent chromium content in stainless steel provides its natural corrosion resistance, while the nickel coating on a stainless steel pin is typically added for additional wear resistance or aesthetic purposes, not necessarily for enhanced rust protection.
Key points to consider:
Stainless steel’s inherent protection:
The chromium oxide layer formed on the surface of stainless steel is what primarily prevents rust, and adding a nickel coating doesn’t significantly improve this aspect.
Nickel coating benefits:
While not as rust-resistant as the stainless steel itself, a nickel coating can offer benefits like improved wear resistance, better appearance, and sometimes enhanced protection in certain environments. If nickel coating cracks or gets scratched it will rust. Due to the nature of the plating process, electrolytic nickel plating has certain disadvantages, including that it:
Only works on conductive materials.
Has less corrosion resistance due to lack of uniformity.
Has less friction resistance due to a lack of uniformity.
Is prone to cracking or damage.
Whereas uncoated stainless steel if scratched the chromium will oxidize and reform the protective barrier.
Grade of stainless steel matters:
Depending on the application, choosing the right grade of stainless steel (like 316 for extreme corrosive environments) can be more important than adding a nickel coating. Nails made out of type 304 stainless steel are made with chromium and nickel and are only rust-resistant. The only truly rust-proof nails are made from type 316 stainless steel with the polymer molybdenum.
Brass
Brass is generally considered more corrosion resistant than stainless steel, but specific alloys of stainless steel may outperform brass.
Clean rust off stainless steel pins with baking soda or oxalic acid like barkeepers friend.
Do not use straight vinegar. It is often too abrasive to expose to thin nickel coatings for extended periods. Nickel plating is easily damaged by acid. Also rinse out vinegar after setting dyes. Most knit pro and knitters pride pins are nickel coated and there have been reports of rusting.