2024-07-20

Looking at size F or G

Need to modify for bigger upper arm, my upper arm circumference is a little over 16”

Cascade 220 solid color, something dark red = 8 skein
Cascade 220 Wave Solar = 2 skein (400/260m)
(Solar is long gradient)

Want to do multicolored ribbing:

1st rd: k1 (MC), k1 (CC)
2nd to 10th rd: k 1 (MC), p1 (CC)
11th rd: knit all (MC)
12th rd: bind off loosely (MC)

2024-07-28

Decided on size G for the looser fit.

Ok I math’d the sweater. Using the process here https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/knitlovewool-designs/4158...

Yoke sts: 348
Current body,arm,body,arm split: (111,63,111,63) (except BOR is center back, so it’s actually (55,63,111,63,56))
Current body sts: 250
Target body sts: 250 (same)
Current arms sts: 80 (it’s a little weird in the pattern, but this is the # that matches the diagram measurements)
Target arm sts: 85
Current underarm (UA) sts: 14
Using the 8% of body size rule mentioned, I want a 4” underarm
Target UA sts: 18

So I’m going to move the arm/body split to give more to the arms, and add more sts to the UA to make up the difference.

sts[’body-target’] - 2*sts[’ua-target’] = 214
so the ‘body’ part of the yoke will be 53 / 107 / 54

sts[’arm-target’] - sts[’ua-target’] = 67
So the final body,arm,body,arm split is (107,67,107,67)
And from BOR it’s (53, 67, 107, 67, 54)
Which is (-2,+4,-4,+4,-2)

Conveniently, the arm sts end up matching size I exactly (2 sizes up) for the sleeve joining, so I think I can just follow the arm pattern for size I.

2024-08-04

Swatched with 3.75 needles and got 18 sts in 4”, and again with 3.25 needles and got 22 sts in 4”. 3.5 needles should be right for needle B. Based on that :

Needle A: 3.0mm
Needle B: 3.5mm
Needle C: 3.25mm

Cast on!

2024-09-18

Finished the yoke and short rows. I thought I was going to need 75+185=260 yards of contrast color so I bought 2 x 220 yard skeins of the Solar, but I have 7g=15yards of the first ball left over. *shrug* Good thing I was already planning on doing the ribbing in two colors, and I’ll have lots for another project.

The German Short Rows video was confusing because it said to do the modified SSK only on the “last” DS. I tried ignoring it and just k2tog for the DS and it left holes, so I tried the modified SSK on all the DSs that had been set up on the wrong side and it worked great.

Modified SSK, for reference:

1. knit to 1 before DS
2. slip stitch knitwise with yarn in back
3. slip first leg of the DS (the long one) purlwise with yarn in back
4. knit those two together through back loop
5. knit second leg of DS through back loop

Blocked it to see how close I was to done, based on this advice.

Pre-blocking: about 8.5”
Post-blocking: about 9.25”

2024-10-04

Despite swatching ahead of time, my blocked in-progress sweater torso is 17sts/4“ (somehow bigger than my swatch on a larger needle size!) and thus also too big around the torso. I’m ok with a baggy sweater and don’t want to rip back 9” of torso (aka all of it) so I guess it’ll be a big sweater!

2024-12-01

The two colored ribbing on the body didn’t look good and also curled a lot. Probably my tension one of the colors was too strong? Swapped the purl/knit colors in the arm cuffs and it looked better

Updated cuff pattern
1st rd: k1 (MC), k1 (CC)
2nd to 12th rd: p1 (MC), k1 (CC)
13th rd: knit all (MC)
14th rd: bind off loosely (MC)

2024-12-08

Unfortunately the body cuff still curled too much, but I’m done re-knitting it. Two color ribbing is super tedious to do. I’m declaring this done!

2024-12-09

Blocked it and it looks a lot better! The two color ribbing on the body lays a lot flatter now, and the texture is much improved.