Knits up quick: two days.
NOTE: joining the cable and making it look good requires eyeballing.
The original pattern was knit flat with a seam up the back of the beret. As I prefer my things without seams, I modified the pattern to knit in the round:
Needles: 1 pr USA No. 9 straights, 1 cable needle (CN), 24” or 29” USA No. 10.5 circulars, USA No. 10.5 Double Point Needles (DPNs)
Abbreviations: C6B = slip next 3 sts to back on CN, k3 then k3 from CN; RS=right side; m1=make one increase; dec=decrease; k2tog=knit two together
CABLED BAND: Using No. 9 needles, cast on 9 sts.
Row 1: knit
Row 2: k2, p6, k1
Row 3: k1, C6B, k2
Row 4: as 2nd row
Rows 5 thru 12:
Repeat Rows 1 & 2 (3 times)
Repeat Row 3 & 4 (1 time)
Continue cable pattern approx 19”, ending with Row 4 (or eyeball what will match the beginning of the cable)
TO JOIN: Three-needle bind-off: Using empty needle, pick up 9 stitches along cast-on edge at beginning of cable. With right sides together, knit through live stitches and picked up stitches, binding off as you go. (there are fantastic tutorials on Youtube.com)
MAIN PIECE: With RS facing, using 10.5 circulars, pick up 78 sts evenly along side edge of cable band.
Row 1: knit
Row 2: k1, m1; then, (k1m1) 19 times, k1 98 sts
Row 3: knit
Row 4: k6, m1; then, (k5m1) 17 times, k7 116 sts
Rows 5 thru 10: knit
Row 11: knit to end, dec 4 sts evenly across row 112 sts
SHAPE CROWN:
(switch to DPNs when this gets too tight for circulars)
Row 1: (k2tog, k6) 14 times {98 sts}
Rows 2 thru 4: knit
Row 5: (k2tog, k5) 14 times {84 sts}
Rows 6 thru 8: knit
Row 9: (k2tog, k4) 14 times {70 sts}
Rows 10 thru 12: knit
Row 13: (k2tog, k3) 14 times {56 sts}
Row 14: knit
Row 15: (k2tog, k2) 14 times {42 sts}
Row 16: knit
Row 17: (k2tog, k1) 14 times {28 sts}
Row 18: knit
Row 19: (k2tog) 14 times {14 sts}
Last Row 20: (k2tog) 7 times, k1 {7 sts}. Break off yarn, thread yarn through rem sts, draw up and fasten off.