27-09-2018

BTW - on paper, this is the most advanced pattern I’ve tried so I’m not intending to blow my circuits unnecessarily - if there’s one thing I do well it’s plan. Taking this one step at a time. I’ll work on other, simpler projects when I need a break.

29-09-2018

So my closest match for gauge isn’t perfect but it should make a slightly shorter version of this (which is not bad for me - a short, short-waisted person). Strangely, I’ve more or less got perfect horizontal gauge with a US 3 for both yarns. It’s the Quince Chickadee that’s off in the vertical dimension by an average of 0.75R / inch.

This means the sweater is apt to be about an inch shorter throughout than expected.

Also - it would appear that Adelaide does shrink horizontally quite substantively. Know that for your next project with this yarn.

30-09-2018

Back Body: CO 125 st, 3” = 22R
Front Body: CO 125 st, 2” = 15R
Sleeves: CO 47, 2.5” (this aligns with the first size but you’ll grade up to the second size, for armscye height) = 18R

Note, sleeves morphed, as scribbled all over my paper pattern and red notebook, to the second size before shaping raglans i.e. before the BO of 6 stitches on each side. I didn’t want to risk fit issues in sleeve height or width given that I rarely knit or wear raglan sweaters.

03-10-2018

Sleeves: In knitting of sleeve rib, front sweater rib hem and back sweater rib hem you have used 72g of yarn or 33.6% of the grey yarn available - actually, remember that some of this is still in the swatch, maybe 10g?. This equates to ~140 yards, not the 200 plus yards I was hoping would be used on the ribbing - cuz I only have 1040 yards of the Quince (200 yards short for the second size, which calls for 1340 yards). Having said this, if necessary, I can use the grey on the neck ribbing AND I’ve opted not to knit the A line side panels as A line - rather I’m going to only knit (vs purl) 8 stitches, 4 on each side of each of the front and back bodies (3 st in pattern and one K stitch for selvedge). This is to say that I’m not doing an A line inverted V on either side panel, from hem to underarm. Note: there is no way I could have done the A line side panel and had enough of the Quince…

04-10-2018

Sleeves - worked in stockinette, not reverse stockinette which is instructed…

At end of making the sleeves, I’ve used approx 210g of Quince (this calculation doesn’t consider the rib done in Adelaide which is over and above). I started with 316g of Quince so I’ve used about 117g on the sleeves. The remainder is 199g in skeins (weighed) and an estimated 11g in the swatch I haven’t ripped out as yet = Total 210g.

Note: 210g = 760 yards (hopefully enough to do the front and back in a modified 2nd size that will be smaller than the 2nd size, as written, because I’ve removed the A line stitches).

I estimate that the yarn needs of the smallest size is about on par with what I’ll need given removal of A line (which amounts to 22 stitches at the widest portion if I’m not mistaken). 149 st cast on (second size) - 22 side stitches (second size) = 127 stitches.

I’ve opted to work 125 stitches of rib which, given that the centre panel of back for second size uses 117stitches (between ribbing and charts) and that I’m allowing 1 stitch for each selvedge and 3 stitches for “side panels” (which I’ll do in knit, not purl, to conform to the sleeves) provides this breakdown:

1 + 3 + 9 + 29 + 41 + 29 + 9 + 3 + 1

selvedge + side panel + rib + chart + rib + chart + side panel + selvedge

If I’ve interpreted things correctly, I won’t be messing with the main pattern, just losing volume, and saving yarn, by removing lots of A line fabric at the sides.

Note: 117g = 424 yards = 37% of my total yarn

58g per sleeve = 18% of total yarn = 212 yards (not including the rib done in Adelaide)

Sweater Back: I have ~380 yards to do each of the front and back of the sweater (760/2) or 105g per. But keep in mind that includes the neckband so use no more than 100g to make the sweater back. If that doesn’t seem feasible, you’ll have to make the neck with Adelaide, as with the cuffs. But you still need to get the front and back, at a minimum, out of the Quince you have remaining…

29-10-2018

In the final analysis, I fucked up the pattern at the very end (and wove in ends before I noticed) and there was no way, given that I really haven’t enjoyed making this sweater, that I was going to unseam everything to make it right. Instead, given that the error was only 12 stitches wide and 3 rows deep (from the bind off edge) I just fudged it when knitting on the band (by picking up stitches lower down (one stitch above where the error began - I would have gone into the stitch below i.e. where the pattern was still correct, but I could tell it was likely to be more noticeable in the end than doing it the way I did.)

I’ll likely write more about this later but quick thoughts:

• The design is ingenious and beautifully architectural, all thanks to the designer. It’s very rare for me to give a 3-star for the pattern and a happiest smiley face for the end result. That’s cuz the design is great but the pattern is unwieldy.

• I’ve never said this about a BT pattern before, but it wasn’t great. I can’t comment on whether it legitimately needs to be as convoluted as it is because I haven’t had enough time to reflect - and frankly, I don’t design complicated patterns on the regular. I know this pattern was advanced (and lovingly put together, for all its unclarity), but 39 pages plus requiring reprint of all the charts in a usable size (which is not provided, very irritatingly) and then having to rework the entire pattern instructions for my size, because there was too much going on in the directions, isn’t the optimal way to begin an enjoyable project. At a minimum, the instructions should be re-drafted so that they are clear to the reader - IMO, it’s the layout that’s doing most of the damage.

• Having said this, my next project will be another sweater by Emily Greene so obvs, I’m optimistic that the Divide pattern is an outlier. Also, the next sweater - the Emily cardigan (instructions for which I’ve already reviewed) - manages to be written out quite clearly in 8 pages (and it’s not much simpler than this one, as far as I can tell).

22-01-2019

In the end I unbound the neck ribbing and added another 1/2 an inchish of length because the neckline was too low and too open for my frame. Unfortunately, my gauge is really different at the moment and using the US1 created a really tight, strangely twisted, twisted knit neckband. It’s fine overall and I wasn’t prepared to start fucking with needle size too. Last photo shows this hyper twistiness. It blocked out somewhat when I steamed it.