04-07-2021

Opted to do 2 rounds of garter stitch at the cast on hem, just because I want to be sure it’s not going to flip up or roll.

05-07-2021

In my experience, a 45.5” hip is quite wide for a size XS. Compared to the bust dimension at the same size, this project is drafted for a person with a “pear shape”. I have a middle-aged “hour-glass shape” (which is to say, having less distinction between bust/waist/hip than I used to, but my hip measurement continues to be 39”. 5.5” of positive ease, with a fabric that won’t have a lot of elasticity, seems like a bad idea. So I’ve restarted and cut 10 stitches (or 2”) from the cast on number (getting me to 43.5” hip) but I still feel that that’s going to be unflatteringly loose. Now I have to decide if I want to cut another 10 st out. That’ll look better, but I’m concerned that it’s going to make it that much trickier to make the modified version of XS, minus not just 10, but 20 stitches - the other sizes have only 10st between cast on numbers (or 2” at gauge). Of course, I’ll look to the distinction between XS and S (as written) to determine how to change the modified XS, but I sense it’s going to be more complicated to modify, the more stitches I cut out…

OK - based on the versions I’ve seen, many look quite roomy in the hips and I’m looking for something fitted, so I’m going to rip it back, yet again, and cut out another 10 st…

So, after restarting 6 times for one reason or another (and by no fault of the pattern instructions), I’ve now cast on 208 st and I’ll figure out the shaping math, as necessary, as I go.

On the topic of the need to alter the dimensions to suit my own proportions - my bust circumference is more aligned with the third size, not the first, but then my underarm measurement is aligned with the pattern’s xs 35.25” circumference. Effectively I’ll decrease more slowly in the first part of the project - to get from my narrower hem to my larger bust circumference than the pattern suggests and then, I’ll decrease quickly over 3” to get back to the XS stitch counts, which works for my upper torso as is.

It’s very odd to have to go smaller than the smallest size, by significant degree, to ensure the hips will fit, while also having to go up 3 sizes for the bust and then, thereafter to have to decrease quickly accommodate my narrow proportions. This pattern is def not designed for an hourglass shape, though it seems clear that it is designed to make pear-shaped proportions seem more hourglass.

As it happens, it looks like I will only be doing 3.5” of decrease shaping from the cast on hem to the full bust, followed by another 2.75” of decreases in circ to get to the pattern-instructed underarm numbers. That’s 6.25” of decreased circumference (vs the 10.25” of shaping that’s instructed for the xs/first size, presuming you follow the pattern as is and at gauge).

07-07-2021

KM Alterations:

• Removed 20 st / 2” from the hip circumference for the first size, which means I’ll have to look at distinctions between the other sizes to confirm that I’m staying true to the pattern in positioning and proportions.
• To maintain proportions (and by looking at the math distinctions between the XS and the S), I started the short rows at 22 st before the markers.
• I also did one fewer short row repeat (again, aligned with what happens between other sizes) so only 12 repeats of GSR rounds 3 and 4.
• I want to maintain the angle of the slip stitch decoration but this isn’t simple - it took me a while to figure it out because it’s not intuitive. Keep in mind that you need to retain the same number of stitches between either side of the decorative slipped stitches and the side seam markers A and B. (Note that after Marker D, you subtract those slipped stitches from the count and within the centre panel, you add the 2 slipped stitches in your count). As such: I need to K 36, pm C, sl 2 wyib, k28, pm D, sl2st wyib, k36, sl M B (side marker), k to EOR (104st).
• Lengthen from underarm to hem cast on by 1” (XS in pattern has length at 14”, I prefer more length to cover abdomen. - Update, this was unnecessary (see below).
• Armscye finishing - to ensure that the arm opening isn’t too long (see below for more on that drama), I’ve done the one round of ktbl and then a 3-stitch icord to raise the armscye by about 0.5”.

See below for how I’ll work the requisite number of decreases (based on my size) over the vertical length of the bodice (which I’ll make slightly longer than instructed).

Decrease Schedule from Hip to Underarm:

• I need to go from 41.5” to 38” (at full bust) and then, thereafter, to the instructed underarm circumference of 35.25, within 3” of achieving the 38” circ. at the full bust.

• Note that, as of completion of the initial short rows section in the back, I have a front hem of 0.75” of garter stitch because I did 2 rounds, rather than 1, given that I was concerned the hem would flip with only one. So technically, I’ve got to decrease 3.5” PLUS another 2.75” of circumference over 14.25”. I’m going to do this in a way that suits my proportions as my full bust is very projected AND very high-set.

• Given my gauge of 8R per inch of length, to work 14.25” will be 114R. We’ll decrease 3.5” of circ = 17.5st (let’s call it 20st) and then another 13.75 (but let’s call it 12st), over the full 114R: 20 st over 90 rounds or 1 dec round every 10 rounds AND 12 st over 24 rounds or 1 dec round every 2 rounds

Each decrease round will decrease 4 st so that’s 5 dec rounds over 11.25”/90R or 1 dec round every 18 rounds and then I’ll decrease 4 st every 8 rounds over 3”/24R.

13-07-2021

About the long armscye issue: A number of knitters have indicated that the armscyes are very long (aka the underarm is too low). I have some thoughts about potential contributing factors:

• If you work with the yarns recommended, they do shrink vertically by ~14%, when blocked (or so my gauge swatch has told me, and I get gauge). So, just on the surface, it surprised me that many of those knitting to the proposed length have found the armholes so long, once blocked. Presuming one uses the yarns called for and gets gauge, if one doesn’t block the garment, the depth will be artificially long (which may be the issue for some, though not for me - see below).
• I’ve got very short armscyes (6.75” depth) so I generally have to shorten every pattern at this spot, including this one. The reason I’m slightly concerned as I’m knitting the upper back now, is because I’m knitting (according to blocked gauge swatch) quite a bit longer than the fabric will be when it blocks. But if it doesn’t shrink quite as much as I’m anticipating, due to the weight/drag of the fabric which, let’s face it, is not made with springy fibres, then I could find myself with more length than desired, even though I’m being very mindful to cut 0.75” of length from this dimension over and above the 7.25” deep armscye that the first size instructs.
• But here’s the reason, in light of what I’ve said above, that, I suspect, others have had challenges with length: It would appear that the pattern has you knit 8R to get the armsyce started (Upper Back and Upper Front), which is an inch of depth. Then you knit another 10 rows when you do the shoulder and neck shaping (1.25”), after knitting the central portion of the armscye depth. Effectively you’ve already knitted 1” of depth over the 1st portion of the armscye knitting process. The pattern instructs to knit to 7.25” (size 1) from the dividing row. If you don’t notice that part of the instructions, you run the risk of knitting an extra inch at the armscye base. Also, I knit to the “correct length” (for me) on the upper back piece and now I’m likely going to have to rip back an inch of that length (because the armsyce mysteriously seemed to get an inch longer once I started to knit the upper front, though I cannot say why?!
• I do note that the upper front is knit for 1” less long than the back (though that length is made up after the bind off of the neck), so maybe that’s what’s throwing some people off…

Kristin Armscye: While my armscye is 6.75”, I will knit to 7” (post-blocked measurement) given that there’s no sleeve and the finishing / bind off may remove a bit of depth.

Given that I want to get to 7” of depth but the fabric is going to shrink vertically by 14%, I want my final armscye depth to be 8”. At 7R per inch (preblocked), that’s 56R. That means I’ll knit 46R straight (in between the start and neck/shoulder shaping portion of the armsyce construction).

Finishing: So my armscye turned out to be more like 7.25” in length at the end, not quite high enough. Here’s how I finished the armscye to yield the length I desired: Using a US6 needle (one size smaller than I used for the garment), I picked up 85st at the armhole - which was one stitch picked up for every one stitch on the lower armscye and then, as I moved to the diagonal and vertical, 3 stitches picked up for every 4. I had a shorter armscye depth than called for which partly accounts for being about 15 st short (based on what the pattern recommends). I did the one row as instructed, ktbl. At this point, the armscye had definitely risen, but not enough. Then I cast on 3 stitches and did an icord bind off. The end result raised the armsyce by a good 0.5” as it’s now my preferred height of 6.75”!

14-07-2021

Thoughts on this project:

• It’s not particularly enjoyable to knit because it’s really tricky to determine vertical measurements (esp given that one is knitting something a-line, aka fairly shapeless at the bell end, from the bottom up). It’s challenging to get a sense of fit as one goes because the fitted segment is knit at the end - so you can’t determine the drape or how the fabric may stretch.
• The drafting is strange and definitely not suited to my body type without substantive alteration. Even after cutting 20st out of the hip measurement at the smallest size, I feel I might have dropped another 10 st, which is crazy. I don’t believe the hip section of the top is supposed to flutter - it doesn’t on the model, and yet her hips are obvs much smaller than the smallest size. I had to alter just about every vertical and horizontal measurement. While the pattern is clear enough, it doesn’t hold the knitter’s hand. So a new knitter, who isn’t well-versed in fit (and knitting math) might want to choose another pattern unless the pattern measurements are those of the knitter in question. The math for this isn’t that difficult so, for someone who’s moving towards applying knitting math to customize fit, this might be a good option.
• OK - I’ve blocked it (given the rain this summer it’s taken 2 days to dry) and I’m still going to use a hair dryer on it before starting the finishing to be absolutely sure that there’s no moisture left.
• On blocking, the armsyces are still a bit longer than I’d like (they blocked out to ~7.25”). I’m hoping that the finishing on the smaller needle does the trick of raising them up slightly, esp given how heavy and drapey this yarn combo is. Thank goodness I cut 20 st out of the cast on hem (at hips). I wish I’d cut out another 10 st in retrospect. But there’s no way to fix that other than to start over given that this is knit bottom-up.
• In retrospect, this is a dicey yarn combo for the top. There is so much drag that the thing is going to lengthen and, given that it’s a bottom-up knit, the impact of that is big. I could make this again and totally nail the fit - now that I’ve already made it once, but who needs 2 of these?
• In light of the drag, I wish I’d knit this 2” shorter than I did. It’s pretty oversized in the lower torso area though it does fit nicely in the upper torso. Why this wasn’t knit top-down (and I like bottom-up construction for some things, when it makes sense) is beyond me.
• I have a full skein of the Reed left over that I wish I hadn’t bought (cuz what will I do with one skein of it - maybe I can return it…) and I also have about 15% of a partial skein. One does need the amount of Cima called for, however - though I do have about half of the 3rd skein left.
• I’m a technical knitter who always considers (and often changes) the math to fit a pattern to my body optimally. In retrospect, this pattern wasn’t worth the effort. This knit wasn’t particularly enjoyable because I spent my entire process worrying about fit for valid reasons. I did fix most of the issues, but not all. For the amount of time I put in, I would expect excellent finished fit but there were too many variables - and the drape is one you cannot predict unless you are very familiar with this yarn combo. Unless you LOVE the pattern (and I do think the design is elegant, modern and chic), I’d give it a miss. But if you do opt to make it, if it fits at the end with no alteration, it’ll probably be an accidental success (unless you get gauge and you have very long armscyes, proportionately very wide hips to waist or bust dimensions and you are tall). I’m not the target market for this drafting, even if I do love the design.
• A couple of caveats: I generally knit with lace-weight and fingering yarn on US 1 - US5 needles so, if you knit DK all the time, you might have a better sense of how to use the yarn to fitting advantage. For me, the positive ease is simply amplified because I don’t usually knit with stitches of this size (which does impact the influence of mechanical ease). In retrospect, I should have used the US 6 - a 4x4 swatch is inaccurate at predicting final gauge given the properties of this yarn combo. Though, on paper, it produced a much smaller fabric / did not meet gauge (and I didn’t prefer its density), that fabric would have kept its shape better.
• If you are a tiny person (and I am not, though I am small), you’re effectively sized out of this pattern at the smallest size, both in terms of vertical and horizontal proportions. I would love to know why this wasn’t designed top-down which would have ameliorated many of the challenges…