13-02-2019

US 4 Post-Blocked Gauge:

11 st and 15.5 rows in 2”

US 3 Post-Blocked Gauge:**

11.5 st and 17 rows in 2”

Pattern indicates 10 st and 14R in 2”. There’s no way I’m making this at the proposed gauge - that would yield a fabric that is more open than I prefer - I like a really firm fabric. I have to be particularly careful because I’m using super wash yarn, known to grow over time. So I need to review the pattern to see if it’ll be easier to just choose a larger size or to redo the math.

On the plus side, I freakin’ LOVE the swatch. The yarn is spectacular. Having said this, it was hanked carelessly and I had a miserable time winding the first ball. Second ball was fine.

15-02-2019

Opted to work with US 2.5 for rib and US 3 for body fabric so let the math begin…

My CO numbers are:

Front body / Sleeve / Back body / Sleeve

38 st / 22 st / 38 st / 22 st

The first st of the sweater begins 19 st through front body - or at its centre.

Prior to beginning the knitting, but right after finishing CO row, set markers as such (and see below for more info on the short rows, which necessitates 2 extra green markers):

Just before centre front st insert green marker) / 10 st to the left insert next green marker (to delineate short row) / 9 st more of front body / then insert first orange marker (this gives 19 st on the first half of the front body, the total front body st count is 38 and 19 is half of that) / after 22 st of the sleeve then insert 2nd orange marker / after 38 st of back body then insert 3rd orange marker / after 22 st of the next sleeve insert 4th orange marker / after another 9 st insert final green marker (to delineate the short row). The green marker delineating the beginning of the round is 10 st away from the short row green marker. That’s 19 st at CO, or half of the front body (to complete the original loop).

17-02-2019

I’ve now ripped this back 3 times - first time to make neck larger, second time to improve short rows and third time to change it up by working German short rows, cuz W&T, when working the purl-side wraps on the knit side (when picking them up at the end), looks horrendous. I tried all the fixes. They failed.

My German short rows, picking up the knit side “wraps” on the knit/right side are perfect. When picking up the purl side “wraps”, there’s a hole on the 5th stitch, even though I used Patty Lyons’ really great tutorial for fixing this: https://pattylyons.com/2018/06/germanshortrowsintheround/

Still, way better outcome than with W&T. I’ll figure out a solution at the end (to make the hole disappear).

On the topic of the short rows, I did the math and included them (the pattern doesn’t provide instructions on this, which is why it’s a good, simple pattern for a new knitter - but one which doesn’t favour optimal positioning of the neckline, esp if you have boobs or a slightly kyphotic back). This pattern would get better marks if short row neck shaping were included as an option for more experienced knitters. It would also get better marks if there were a detailed schematic included with the pattern. I had to work backwards to figure out what the sizing should be, based on proposed gauge. A schematic would have saved me some time and effort.

I did 10 short rows, the markers for which were positioned equidistantly on either side of the centre front stitch (also denoted by a green marker). This means I have 3 green markers at first (in addition to my orange raglan markers). 1 green marker delineates the start of the round AND the centre of the front body. The other 2 markers are 10 st on either side of this to delineate where the first short rows will occur.

Given my numbers that means that:

• Centre front marker (first CO stitch) is delineated by green marker.
• Note: My version of front body is 38 st wide and I opted to set the short row markers 10 st. on either side of the CF stitch.
• K 19 st., passing the second green maker which delineates short row point. Do KFB inc. 20 Fr body st. (This represents half of front body as of the end of the first inc row, currently being worked)
• Sl orange marker 1, do KFB inc, work to next marker and do KFB incs on either side. 24 sleeve st.
• Back is worked and becomes 40 st before you get to your third raglan body/sleeve orange marker. 40 back st.
• Sleeve 2 is worked, incl increases. Then you get to the 4th orange marker. 24 sleeve st.
• Now knit 9 more stitches to the green marker that delineates the first short row turn. Follow German short row instructions.
• Once you’ve turned, you’re purling then next row, back to 1 st before the first green marker which delineates short rows. This will be the stitch “pulled up. Turn the work back to the knit side, and continue with the short rows.
• Note: purl side rows are worked evenly to the next short row turn, as increases (while short rowing) are only worked on the 5 right side rows.
• You’ll work 10 short rows - 5 on knit side of fabric, 5 on purl side of fabric. These st are 2 st away from each other moving toward the respective shoulder seam on each short row.

This lowers the front neckline by about an inch but I’m not sure that I positioned these as well as I might have to gain the neck shape I prefer. Since this neck is slightly more “crew” and small than I was hoping for, I’ll work a couple of changes next time I make a top down raglan, see below, to make the circ slightly larger and more scoop shaped at the front.

17-02-2019

Re: SleevesI have opted not to make this version with the eyelet sleeves because it’s not so practical for winter wear and when I’m wearing a sweater it’s generally cool to cold. If I end up liking this pattern to make it again, I’ll do the next version with the eyelet sleeves.

To improve fit of sleeves for this version which, I discovered after splitting and knitting, are slightly too wide at the top of the bicep: I’m knitting the sleeves flat with selvedge stitch to be able to increase more evenly and quickly without underarm bulk and with a seam to stabilize the sleeve. I’m not adding 2 extra stitches for the selvedge - just using 2 of the original 70 as selvedge going forward (to decrease faster). Then I’m decreasing every right side row (K2tog at beginning of round and SSK at end as such: k1 selv / k1 / k2 tog / k to 4 st before end of row / ssk / k1 / k1 selv) till I get to 54 st (52 sleeve and 2 selvedge which will form the seam).

22-02-2019

Remember this for future if you decide to make another raglan top down:

• Make the neck opening larger by CO 8 more stitches (128) but remember you only need to get to so many stitches at bust and sleeve measurements before you’ll work those sections “even” till you get to the correct depth. Then remove the sleeves and start the body.

• Make the angle of the raglan more acute by diminishing the number of raglan stitches at the shoulder cast on, between the orange sleeve markers, by an inch (in this case 6 stitches at each sleeve CO, which you’ll “give” to sweater front and back necklines). Just continue to increase till you get to the desired bicep width and, if you continue to need more depth in the armscye, then knit the sleeves “even” at the appropriate point and then remove the sleeve stitches (at the correct width and depth). Same premise for body body as both body and sleeves are eventually decreased at diff rates, other than 2 st per each sleeve and front and back aka 8 st per row, when you hit certain circumferences).

I think that these changes would create a better neck opening and a more flattering angle calling more attention to shoulders, vs bust.

What this would look like on CO edge is:

46 st / 18 st / 46 st / 18 st = 128

And when you remove sleeves (increasing every other row till you get to the correct width and then continuing “even” till you get to the correct depth - 6.75 inches vs the slightly too-deep 7 inches I did this time):

94 / 64 / 94 / 64 = 316

Now start to work the short rows on the first stockinette row below the neckline. Consider how the positioning of the short row stop and start will influence the shape of the neck and go for a span between them that will produce the scoopiest shape. These two things will improve the fit of the neck, over what the pattern directs.

versus what you had this time at the split:

94 / 70 / 94 / 70 = 328

Then you can do the sleeve decreases more slowly.

23-02-2019

In the end I made a mistake on one sleeve and accidentally decreased to 48st plus 2 selvedge. That’s on the cusp of too small in the twisted rib worked on smaller needle size. I’ve had to block agressively and I didn’t make the same mistake on the other side - I kept that at 50 st plus 2 selvedge which works better.

Wet Blocking dimensions:

Shoulders: Free but set at 14” from shoulder to shoulder

Neck: ~6.5” wide, pinned and front neck 1” lower than back neck pinned

Length from shoulder top to hem:

Length from underarm to cuff: 9.5” pinned

Bust Circumference: 16” (half circumference of 32”)

Circumference of cuff and lower sleeve pinned at 4” in width (assertive blocking of 0.75 inch on each side so 1.5” at full circumference) or 8” circ

25-02-2019

In the final analysis, I really love the yarn. It blocked beautifully - and it didn’t grow excessively (as super wash often does). I’d totally use it again even though it’s thicker than what I prefer in a sweater. Would work really well with accessories.

I also really love the sweater and the fit - but I can’t credit the pattern for more than the inspiration as I reworked the math in every way and didn’t do the eyelet pattern.

04-03-2019

All I was left with, in the end, is the 2 gauge swatches I started with…