10-03-2018

Pre-blocked Gauge:Hem double knit on US Size 1 - 8-9R per inch and 6st per inch (but this is hard to determine and it isn’t blocked).

Body / Straight Stockinette on US 1.5 - 10R per inch

Post-Blocked Gauge in stockinette on US 1.5: 6st per inch (pattern calls for 6.25 st per inch so I’m effectively making half a size larger).

29-03-2018

I am extremely impressed by the way this pattern is constructed - and the way the instructions are presented in detail, clearly and leaving nothing to chance. There are a lot of patterns that are put together so mediocrely. This one is a pleasure and it’s a garment having quite sophisticated lines, esp. given the general hand knit offerings out there.

Pre-Blocked Dimensions of Back Body:

Length from hem to shoulder bind off: 26.25”
Armscye depth: 7”
Bottom hem depth: 2”
Bottom hem width: 30.5”
Shoulder width (seam): 4”
Upper Back width: 15”

Post-blocked Dimensions of Back Body:

Armscye: 6.5”
Bottom hem width: 30”
Upper bust latitude (just below armscye base - measures the back and side fronts): 24”
Length from hem to shoulder bind off: 25” (here’s where the gauge has changed most - remember for future: Finch shrinks lengthwise more than widthwise…)

The post blocked body gauge is: 9R per inch NOT 10R…

Post-blocked Dimensions of Side Front

Hem to start of v-neck decreases: 10”
Shoulder width (seam):

Post-Blocked Dimensions of Sleeves

Hem to underarm - 16”
Sleeve cap height - 5”
Widest point of sleeve - 11.25”

29-03-2018

The reason I give this a medium difficulty rating isn’t because the pattern is inherently difficult or unclear but because this project is a commitment. I decided I would just knit the second smallest size straight - which means I needed to get gauge, more or less. Given how loosely I knit, even using a smaller gauge yarn than recommended (fingering vs the recommended DK weight), I did that on US1 (for doubleknit) and US 1.5 (for the main pattern). That is a lot of tiny knitting.

UPDATE: I actually do think this pattern is of moderate difficulty. If I hadn’t had as much experience as I’ve had, the double knit might have confused me - though it’s beautifully explained. What def would have confused me would have been how to work the pockets. Again, very clear instruction but what it’s instructing is NOT intuitive and it takes confidence.

Blocking the back now to see how it works…

01-04-2018

Final Yarn Weights by Section:

Back body: 169g yarn
Left front: 56g yarn
Right front: 55g yarn
Sleeve 1: 50g yarn
Sleeve 2: 50g yarn
Button band: 56g (forgot to measure before blocking so this has been calculated by subtracting all of the other pieces from the amount used (436g).

Note: There are MANY ends to weave in (upwards of 50) so I’m sure I’ve lost a few grams in yarn ends. As such, the button band may have used a bit less yarn than I’m accounting for here…

09-04-2018

Given my gauge, I need to knit the smallest size for sleeves (instead of second smallest size). Remember - when you get to the sleeve cap, go back to the vertical dimensions of the second smallest size to ensure that the height of the armscye/sleeve cap are aligned with the rest of the pattern. No need to increase the width of the sleeve cap unless it seems to narrow as you get to that point - but given the dimensions of my arms, I think smallest size will work best.

Remember - buttons go on the left-hand side / button holes on the right-hand side…

22-04-2018

61.5” is the actual band length of the sweater from hem-hem (over the shoulder and sweater back. 20% shorter than this would be 49.5”. (I tend to like a button band that is stretched to approx 20%, when sewn in, to give a firm end result that doesn’t sag.)

In light of this - I’m going to knit to ~50” and then block / pin to sweater, to ensure it’s the right length. As nec. I can always knit another 5 inches (or however much is required) because I’m not going to bind off (or even cut the yarn from the skein) till after I block and pin - to confirm length is correct.

Note - this worked pretty well, though I could have given it another inch. Once blocked, I had about 51” of length. If you don’t provide enough negative ease here (given the tensile parameters of your yarn), the heavy band may sag and drag down the sweater front over time. In full disclosure, I think I made my band just a smidge too short, but steam blocking and wearing have/will take care of this.

22-04-2018

On balance:

• I do think the sleeves run short (must be something to do with the seaming process/construction) because I generally like 21” sleeves and these are effectively bracelet length. Admittedly, I generally prefer 3/4 sleeves so this is fine from my perspective. Note: I shortened the sleeves by 0.5” and I may or may not do that if I make this again.
• I could have made the sleeve circumference at the upper arm slightly larger - the second smallest pattern size (what I made the rest of the garment in) would prob have worked fine. The sleeves aren’t tight, but they’re currently “pullover snug” not “cardigan snug”. (Update: On wearing the sweater, I revise this perspective. I actually think the sleeves are perfect in circumference…)
• The button band takes a LONG time. And it was a bit hard to concentrate because, by the time I was knitting it, I was so close to the end (but still not there!). My urge to see the final result made for knitting that wasn’t so “in the moment”. I sense, were I to make this again (presuming I enjoy the fit and it’s something I would wear, fingers crossed!), I would be more calm and measured.

24-04-2018

I still have to weave in ends and attach buttons and I’m processing the experience (and will write more). But right now I can say I LOVE this garment - and I will wear it - but the fit is imperfect in the way I suspected it would be - too large below the V and slightly snugger in the bust than it might be.

When I make this again and I will decrease the size / circumference below the base of the V. I’ll also increase the bust circumference of the side front and side back at the side seam, just a bit, to give about 2” of additional coverage over bust.

This sweater doesn’t gape (even though it’s technically too slight in the bust form me, by my standards) because it has a lot of heft and the fabric over the bust is stabilized by that. But there is no way I could wear this without a top underneath (not that this is the purpose of the design).

Where I nailed this is in the shoulder width and armscye depth and in the vertical dimensions. I’m very happy with my workmanship, with the fabric created, with the hand, drape and fall of the garment. When I have the energy, I’ll make the fit alterations and then I’ll make it again.

I just didn’t have it in me to customize a sweater right now - and this pattern is beautiful without alteration. I just have very specific personal fit preferences and I’m a small, curvy person.

FYI, on having completed this with consistent (though enjoyable!) effort, I can say that if your finishing skills aren’t pretty expert, you may be somewhat outside of your comfort zone (or maybe even outside the range of your dexterous abilities). I’ve been compulsively sewing and knitting for a few years now - I love hand sewing and finishing - and this project tested me. The beauty of this garment is in its structural simplicity so it requires very careful completion or, honestly, it’s going to look sub par.