Fingering yarn held with mohair silk to get DK

Got perfect requested gauge in both sts and rows with 4 mm needles, but decided to use 3.75 mm and 3.25 m as pattern.
gauge measured on finished and blocked sweater is also 22 sts x 30 rows (but sweater knitted with 3.75 mm needles) !

A/B cup: no bust shaping
Armhole depth: I’m 1.80 m tall but follow regular armhole not tall one as I want narrower sleeve
Neckband: pick up 44 sts from back, 23 sts from front right and left, 24 sts from front CO, then work a purled round before ribbing. Italian sewn BO
Sleeves: need “tall sleeve length” but starting with regular armhole pattern. Pick up ratio around armhole : 3 sts for 4 rows. Decrease every 12 rows instead of 11 (= 4 cm), add another decrease (63 sts left), then knit 13 rows = 45 cm from underarm
Cuff: follow size 2 because of the additional dec, 20 total ribbed rows (including the set up one with slipped stitches) = 6 cm, Italian sewn BO
Body: follow tall length (32.5 cm) from underarm then 20 ribbing rows as for sleeve cuff. note: 1 ball of Fonty BB merino = 15 cm over body. Italian sewn BO

note: total yardage includes swatch (11 g of fonty + 4 g of Ito = about 45m of each yarn). So needed about 1150 m of yarn for this size 3, A/B cup, lengthened

measurements on finished (and blocked) sweater.
armhole depth: 20 cm
sweater width (lay flat): 50 cm
sleeve length: 56 cm
body length from underarm: 40 cm