Cast on with German Twisted, then realized I should’ve started with the CC! It pays to print the photos as well as the instructions (and to actually read the instructions). Started over with the mint green in a tubular cast on (the one that doesn’t use waste yarn), knit 3 double-knit rows, then knit the 4th onto dpns, joined and started k1, p1 in the round. Since this cast on requires an odd number of stitches, I slipped the extra stitch from the first needle onto the last and purled the last two stitches together at the end of the round.
This is a lot of detail, but I need it so I will know how to start the second sock.
06-06-2016
knit 6 repeats of stitch pattern, putting cables on both sides of sock (I like symmetry.) Had to switch to smaller needles after the second repeat because the yarn was pooling--grr. Divided for heel between the two cables, probably won’t continue cables into the foot, since they don’t show up well in the dark yarn. Will knit the heel on smaller needles to make it last longer.
06-07-2016
The heel knit up quickly, even though I didn’t quite follow instructions, choosing instead to use two butterflies of the light green and three (including the full ball) of the dark. I used the pattern technique at the start of the fifth leaf, stranding a bit to avoid having to start another couple of butterflies. I had thought of using some reinforcement thread in the heel turn (my Achilles point for wear), but this yarn is so tightly spun I decided to try it without reinforcement. After picking up stitches, I have 86 stitches (adding an m1 at the start of the instep to make the pattern start with a purl)--I think I just knit 34 rows of heel, but it looked big enough.
06-12-2016
Got so bored with knitting the foot in plain ribbing. I probably should have continued the cable for entertainment purposes, at least. The boredom encouraged me to start the stranded chart before the toe. I like stranding just before the toe. Switching from ribbing to stockinette widens the sock over the wider part of my foot (the toe joint) and then the stranding tightens and reinforces the material under the ball of my foot.
Stats: 66 sts in the foot, divided with 34 in instep for the stranded chart. Used stacked arrangement of colors in the sole, plain rounds of alternating colors at each end of chart. Used last plain round of mint for start of toe, decreasing two sts in instep on second round. Next, 3 plain rounds, a standard decrease round, 2 plain rounds, the rest of the toe as usual, beginning decreases every round once down to 8 sts per dpn.
06-29-2016
Nearly ready to start the heel on the second sock, which will be the same as the first, with the flower reversed (working chart from the top down instead of the usual bottom up). Have pulled out a pattern I used once years ago that has a short-row toe. I think it will allow me to work an intarsia design in the top of the toe without having to sew the sides together. Will probably still do the stranding before the toe.
07-08-2016
The second sock is done and the pair fits well. The only change on the second sock was the short row toe with the intarsia flower. That approach worked fine and avoided a little sewing. I’m not totally satisfied with the look of the flower--maybe I’d like it better in the main color yarn, or in a third color, like white? However, I will see how it feels wearing a flower on my toes before I knit another pair of socks with intarsia toes.
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