08-10-2022

Sleeves:
Started with a sleeve from the bottom up, casting on the number of stitches for a size 4. I knit the ribbed cuff (P1, K1) on 3.25 mm DPNs. Starting with a purl stitch for the ribbing means the dip stitch pattern on the sleeve will line up better with the ribbing pattern. I added a few more rounds to make the cuff a bit longer than the pattern.

I then switched to 3.75 mm DPNs and knit the purl stitches and slipped the knit stitches for one round to make a smoother transition from the cuff. After this, I increased every other stitch using kfb, ending up with the stitch count for a Size 2.

I then knit two rounds of “setup” rows (=Row 4 of the dip-stitch-in-the-round pattern).

08-10-2022

The pattern does not have any shaping in the sleeve, but I would like add an increase a couple of inches below the elbow to increase to a Size 3. I knit 11 pattern repeats (the pattern itself is a 4-round repeat), and started increasing on the third pattern round of the next pattern repeat:

Inc. round 1: P1, M1R, K1, M1L, P1, continue in pattern (Pattern Row 3) (2 st increased)

Inc. round 2: P1, M1R, K3, M1L, P1, continue in pattern (Pattern Row 4) ( st increased)

Inc. round 3: P1, M1R, P1, DR, K3, DL, P1, M1L, P1, Continue in pattern (Pattern Row 1) (2 st increased)

This brings the sleeve stitch count to a Size 3 (fits larger with my loose gauge).

I continued the sleeve in pattern for a total of 28.75 pattern repeats (ending on a pattern row 3). The last st should be a purl st.

7 st are placed on hold for the underarm centered on the new pattern repeat for the increase (K1, P1, K3, P1, K1)

Body:
I have reverse engineered the rest of the pattern for bottom-up for a size 3. It seems a bit small but I hope it blocks out. (I initially cast-on for size 4 and it seemed too huge). I used a German twisted cast-on for the number of body stitches corresponding to size 3, and did 11 rows of ribbing using P1, K1, followed by two setup rows before starting the dip stitch pattern.

I continued for the same number of repeats as the sleeves = 28.75, ending on the 3rd row of the pattern on a purl st.

03-12-2022

Join sleeves and body in the round:
On the next round, K1 (raglan st), PM, knit across the front in pattern, starting on a pattern row 4 (following number of st for the correct size), PM, K1 (raglan st), PM, placed 5 st on hold (should be P1, K3, P1 on hold).

Transferred the sleeve st to the left hand needle (minus 7 st on hold for underarm). Knit across the sleeve in pattern. The pattern should be uninterrupted. =Right sleeve

PM, K1 (raglan st), PM, knit across the back in pattern (following the number of st for the correct size). PM, K1, PM. Placed next 5 st on hold (should be P1, K3, P1 on hold).

Transferred the sleeve st to the left hand needle (minus 7 st on hold for underarm). Knit across the sleeve in pattern. The pattern should be uninterrupted. =Left sleeve

Checked the correct number of st on needles for the size, including 4 raglan stitches.

BOR is between the left sleeve and the front.

03-12-2022

Yoke with raglan decreases

The dip stitch pattern continued through the yoke section, starting on a pattern row 1.

Followed the pattern for decrease frequency for size 3 (decreased every 4th roundX times, then decreases every other round X times).

The decrease rows along the raglans were as follows:

When the second st from the marker was a knit st: knit in pattern until 2 st before M, SSK, SM, K1, SM, K2tog. Repeat for all raglan st (8 st dec).

When the second st from the marker was a purl st: knit in pattern until 2 st before M, SSP, SM, K1, SM, P2tog. Repeat for all raglan st (8 st decreased).

For neater SSK: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SAZRlMCyCQ

Where the raglan decreases first intersected the dip stitches on a pattern row 1, the pattern was k2tog, k2, DL. On the next round I picked up the dip st on the right (DR) so that the pattern was complete. This was mirrored on the other side of the raglan (DR, K2, SSK; picking up DL on the next round).

The next time the raglan decreases intersected the dip stitches on a pattern row 1, the pattern was k2tog, k1, DL; I included the dip stitch on just one side for a half dip stitch. This was also mirrored on the other side of the raglan (DR, K1, SSK).

04-12-2022

When the decrease row occurs on a pattern row three, if the stitches before/after the raglan are purl stitch - dip stitch, just move the dip stitch to the other side of the purl stitch and knit all three stitches together (following instructions for the dip stitch technique).

05-12-2022

After all of the raglan decreases, it ended on a pattern row 3 (final decrease round).

Knit one round in pattern without decreases (pattern row 4).

On the next round: At BOR: Broke the yarn. Slipped raglan st and 11 st purlwise to the right needle (left front section). Dropped the next st and picked it up again together with the new yarn on the left needle (purl st). Repeated with the next stitch (knit st). Bound off 24 st in pattern with new yarn (middle front), with 13 st remaining for right front. The stitch count matches the original pattern right after “Row 5-11.”

05-12-2022

Short rows, knitting flat

Continued on RS row with new yarn (right front). The first st on the needle is the st that was used to bind off the middle section. The first and last st on the needles are knit on the RS and pulled on the WS. The pattern follows the “Dip Stitch - flat” instructions starting with a pattern row 1. Decreases are worked on every right-side row:

Decrease row on RS: K1, SSK, Knit in pattern until 2 st before m, SSK/SSP, slip M, K1, slip M, K2tog/P2tog, continue decreasing at markers and knitting in pattern until 3 st remaining, K2tog, K1.
(If the second st from the marker is a knit st = SSK/K2tog; If the second st from the marker is a purl st = SSP/P2tog)
(10 st decreased)

I continued the pattern until the final bind-off by working 5x RS rows and 5x WS rows as per the pattern instructions. The stitch count now matched the stitch count in the instructions after “Row 1 (RS).”

On the next RS row: following flat dip-st pattern for row 3, do another round of decreases:
SSK, move st to left needle, (SSK, sm, k1, sm, K2tog, continue to the next marker, knitting the knits and purling the purls) repeat until final stitch remaining, move st to left needle, K2tog. (10 stitches decreased).

Stitch count = cast-on stitch count in the original pattern.

WS: Knit the knits and purl the purls, removing all stitch markers.

Collar and finishing

Bind off all st in pattern. The neck hole is pretty large so I just used a standard bind-off.

Followed the same pattern instructions for the collar. Made sure the knits and purls in the ribbing lined up with the pattern.

Grafted underarm together: one needle holds the 7 underarm stitches from the sleeve, the other holds the 5 underarm stitches from the body plus one knit stitch on either side picked up. Graft together using Kitchener stitch. Close any holes with long tails.

07-12-2022

Blocking! It is quite long but I am hoping to stretch it out width-wise a bit so that will also help to shorten it.

12-12-2022

After blocking the sleeves were quite long, so I will did so e surgery to shorten them with a 3-stitch i-cord bind-off instead. I also ripped out the folded collar because it felt too bulky and replaced it with the same i-cord bind-off. The body is also long but I don’t mind because I tuck it in anyways. If I knit this again I would remove 2-3” of length.

Adjusting the length of a bottom-up sweater is not that scary, awesome tutorial here: https://youtu.be/DcjSogtJ_xc