09-17-2018

Click here for updated, blanket-width charts from Lilla Bjorn!

https://www.lillabjorncrochet.com/2018/10/spirits-of-life...

Color notes:
Parts 1 and 8 (the stripes):Colors used as indicated in pattern. In these sections,
A is Spirit Dolphin
B is Catona Light Navy (164)
C is Spirit Butterfly
D is Catona Hot Red (115)
E is Catona Vivid Blue (146)
F is Spirit Eagle
G is Catona Root Beer (157)
H is Spirit Blue Jay

Parts 2, 7, and 9 (the mosaics & the border): Colors used as indicated in pattern. In these sections,
A is Spirit Dolphin
B is Catona Light Navy (164)
C is Spirit Butterfly
D is Catona Hot Red (115)
E is Catona Vivid Blue (146)
F is Spirit Wolf
G is Catona Light Silver (172)
H is Spirit Blue Jay

Part 3 (first overlay squares). Colors used mostly as indicated in pattern, except that all corners are worked in Spirit Dolphin. In this section,
A is Spirit Dolphin
B is Catona Light Navy (164)
C is replaced by A
D is Catona Royal Orange (189)
E is Catona Sweet Orange (411)
F is replaced by A
G is Catona Old Lace (130)
H is replaced by A

Part 4 (C2C):
Divider 1:
Rows 1-2: Spirit Dolphin
Row 3-4: Catona Royal Orange
Rows 5-6: Catona Hot Red
Rows 7-8: Spirit Salmon
C2C panel as in chart with H=Spirit Dolphin, G=Catona Hot Red, C=Spirit Butterfly
Divider 2:
Rows 1: I matched the colors in this row to the colors in the C2C panel I was attaching to
Row 2-3: Catona Light Navy
3-4: Spirit Wolf

Part 5 (C2C):
C2C panel as in Part 4
Divider:
Row 1: matched to colors in C2C panel
Rows 2-3: Spirit Grasshopper
Rows 4-5: Spirit Dolphin (probably I’d change this to Catona light navy to match the corresponding divider in Part 4)
Rows 6-7: Catona Emerald (515)
Rows 7-8: Spirit Butterfly

Part 6 (second overlay squares): Colors as in pattern, except that all corners are worked in Spirit Butterfly. I’m not totally happy with my color selections here, tbh. In this section,
A is replaced by C
B is Catona Emerald (515)
C is Spirit Butterfly
D is Catona Hot Red (115)
E is Catona Sweet Orange (411)
F is replaced by C
G is Catona Old Lace (130)
H is replaced by C

10-13-2018

Notes on how to double the width of the pattern (posted with permission from designer):
I made the blanket 226 stitches wide, rather than 113, and I removed 2 of the C2C panels, as indicated below, because I felt that otherwise the blanket would be too long and skinny. This gave me a blanket that is ~46”x57.5”

Part 1:
Begin by chaining 228
Rows 23, 27, 31: As in pattern, except you will end with 4sc (37 tr2tog)

Part 2:
In the mosaic section, you’ll need a border of only 3 stitches on the right and 2 on the left of the pattern repeats. So, looking at the chart in the original pattern, black out the first 3 columns of the “begin” section and the last three columns of the “end” section. You’ll get 13 repeats of the pattern rather than 6.
On Row 28 (and the Spsc rows in sections 4, 5, and 7): (3sc, 1Spsc) across, ending with 2sc

Part 3:
Make 8 squares rather than 4, join squares together as in pattern. After joining your squares, you’ll only have 225 stitches on your strip of squares, and 226 stitches on the last row of Part 2. I compensated by just slip stitching 2 stitches on the main part of the blanket together while I was joining the wrap.

Part 4:
Work Divider 1, Panel 1, then Divider 2
Divider 1, Row 1: Add an extra dc to get your stitch count back up to 226!
C2C Panel: Look at the diagram of C2C panel 1. Now, add two new columns on the right hand edge and two new columns on the left hand edge. Basically, you’re making a wider border on either side of the zigzag repeats. Now, look at the zigzags made by Yarn G in the diagram. The line “zags” 6 times. To make the pattern double wide, you’ll need to make it “zag” 12 times. It might be useful to sketch it out on graph paper.
Note: There are 17 rows marked in the original pattern where, when joining the C2C panel to the body of the wrap, you will skip only 1 stitch. In order to make the stitch count work out for the double-width blanket, you’ll have to do this 29 times. TBH, I just fudged this by marking stitches 31, 64, 97, 131, 163, and 196 on the body of the blanket before beginning the C2C panel. Then, I just made sure that the points of my zigzags lined up with the marked stiches, skipping either 1 or 2 stitches on the body of the blanket to make things line up right. So, the ends of rows 12, 24, 36, 48, 60, and 72 are slip stitched to the marked stitches.

Part 5:
Work Panel 2 then Divider 2.
C2C panel: Add two additional columns to either side of the chart for panel 2. Your finished panel will, again, have 12 “zags” instead of 6. When attaching the C2C panel to the body of the blanket, I just skipped either 1 or 2 stitches on the body of the blanket as needed to make it visually line up with Part 4, but you might put markers on stitches 16, 48, 81, 114, 147, 180, and 212 and make sure that the points of your zigzags attach there. So, the beginning of rows 5 and 77 and the ends of rows 16, 28, 40, 52, and 64 are slip stitched to the marked stitches.

Part 6:
As in part 3

Part 7:
Divider, Row 1: Add an extra dc to get your stitch count back up to 226!
In the mosaic section, you’ll need a border of only 9 stitches on either side of the pattern repeats. So, looking at the chart in the original pattern, black out the first 8 columns of the “begin” section and the last 9 columns of the “end” section. You’ll get 8 repeats of the pattern.

Part 8:
Rows 13, 21: Begin with 3sc, not 2sc
Row 17: Begin with 5sc

Border:
As in pattern.