I am making this for my older daughter so that I can see how it works - size wise for a DK weight. I am trying to make one for my younger daughter out of a fingering/sport weight and even though I am technically “almost” at gauge, it seems way too small.

Everyone says this pattern is extra large and so that seems strange to me. Thus, I am going to make it with this yarn and see what happens. Give myself something to compare to the lighter weight yarn.

Gauge
I hook
radius = 3.5 in
side 2 = 7 in

J hook
radius = 3.5 in
side 2 = 7.25 in

I hook - edc
radius = 4 in
side 2 = 7 in

goal radius = 4 in
goal side 2 = 7 in

From what I can tell, she prefers your gauge to be on the larger side. If any of your gauge measurements are too small, she says to increase your hook size.

Yep, edc it is! With an I hook.

Sleeve decrease
I do know that the best way to decrease for the sleeve is instead of 1 dc3tog on the same side each time you do a decrease, you spread it out. Because this method gives you a seam that curves.

Others say this sleeve is very wide and that you should start an extra decrease around Round 16 to start taking some of the fullness out of the sleeve.

I have thoughts on doing only 1 dc at the end of each side instead of 2. But that will affect the round that has the open blocks. So, I have to think about this some more.

Actual stitches (all dc replaced with edc)

R1-5:
All rounds as written. R4 has dc3tog as written so that seam is centered on side.

Starting on R5 - 3, 4, 4, 4 pattern
R6 - start dc2tog on both sides of join
R7 - all dc
R8, 10, 12, 14, 16 - dc2tog on both sides of join.

Doing 3 rounds of dc aligns the dc up for R9 with open blocks. This pattern of decreasing only works with the 3, 4, 4, 4 pattern. It centers the underarm seam. The join is almost invisible because there is no turning.

1 skein of Evergreen = Rounds 2-13 (exactly)

Camel = Rounds 14-16

Evergreen = Rounds 17-20

Extra decreases
Rnd 18, 20 - 1 increase in each corner, dc2tog on both sides of join

Rnd 22 - dc3tog on both sides of join, 1 increase on each corner of Side 1, 2 increases for other sides.

Seedling (medium green = Round 22

I tried the first hexagon onto my mannequin. It seems like it will fit but I may have shortened the sides too much for the back and front. I didn’t think about changing the increases for only side 1 until I got to Rnd 22.

Ooops
I mistakenly ended on Rnd 22 thinking it was for a size Medium. You end on Rnd 22 for a size Small. It worked out okay because I did this with both hexagons. Since the pattern runs large, it is more than full. I would say it fits more like a size Large - even though I accidentally made it a size small (according to the pattern).

Yarn choices
I thought I had enough yarn picked out to make this cardigan. I didn’t plan on doing the extensions at the bottom of the sweater. But now that I have finished 1 hexagon, I don’t think I have enough of my 2 colors to finish the ribbing.

I started a new lighter green color because I am not sure that I have enough of either the brown or evergreen to complete the ribbing. I spent hours looking through my stash and trying different yarns to see how they would look. I think the lighter green is a bit bright but still looks better than any other yarn that I have tried.

One of the other yarns was an offwhite and looked fine with the color scheme but it is a nubby yarn and doesn’t do ribbing at all well. So, the lighter green it is!

Now, I just need to put all of the other yarn away and clean up my mess! lol

I am going to get creative with how I am using this lighter green yarn.

Seams and Extensions
I did the 4 extension rows for size medium on the 2 hexagons. I did these because the back needed more rows to fill in appropriately. It is longer than I was wanted but it will work out.

green - Rows 1-2
evergreen - Rows 3-4

Row 4 worked in dc instead of edc - to shorten length.

All seams were sewn with right sides together. Sleeve seams first working the outer loops together to give a nice detail down the sleeve. The back worked with the inner loops together so there was not an obvious seam.

Sleeve extension is 2 rounds or green to match the back extensions. Worked in the round. Then moved on to the cuffs.

Cuffs and Ribbing
I don’t have enough of the evergreen to do all of the ribbing. I have less than 1 skein left at this point. I could not find any evergreen for sale any where.

Rounds 1-4 worked in dc instead of edc to shorten length. On all dc rounds, 1 dc3tog worked on each side of inner seam. Trying to remove some of the fullness.

Because I did extra decreases before I got to the cuff ribbing, I didn’t have to do all of the decreases to attach the ribbing.

Rounds 1-2 = green
Rounds 3-4 = evergreen

Cuff Ribbing worked with H hook - brown yarn

Bottom of sweater ribbing worked with H hook - evergreen yarn, 5 rows only

Collar and lapel ribbing worked with H hook - brown yarn. I worked Ribbing Setup Row and 1 extra row of sc in green. This smoothed the edges nicely and set up for the brown ribbing.

Sigh… Half way around the lapel (collar ribbing) and I have decided 2 things.

1. the brown looks like crap next to the light green.
2. Even though I started the ribbing on the correctly, the join (sl sts) look inside out.

I am frogging the lapel. Adding at least 1 row of the evergreen (I was going to make pockets but I need a color transition) and then starting the lapel differently so the join looks better.

The extra row of sc in evergreen looks great for transition.

This collar is worn flat and not turned up and so you want the join to look nice.

collar ribbing = approximately 110 yards

Pockets
I am not adding pockets. I have enough of the evergreen to make them. I just think that it would detract from my yarn color choices.

The sweater has a sort of granny square vibe going on and I really like how the colors worked out.

Project Notes
This pattern has a LOT of projects with notes. It’s really nice because otherwise I would be doing a lot of frogging to figure things out. It does not say a lot for a designer when so many people have had to post how they had to modify the pattern to make it look nice. Or that they had trouble following the instructions.

I just read a project that said the designer had a strange way of making dc in her video for this pattern. A yarn over for the first part of the dc and a yarn under for the second part. This would explain to me why it was so hard to reach gauge.

Rating
I had to do a LOT of frogging to try to get my cardigan to work. Straightening out the underarm seam was one of the most difficult processes.

I don’t like the look of the gathered collar ribbing or gathered bottom ribbing. I thought it was going to hang flat. I looked at other project pictures and notes - so many modifications to make this cardigan work.