According to pattern, should choose size E (based on upper bust + 2”).
Gauge on size 4s: washed, 33 x 28 per 4” in 2x2 rib. Washed & ironed, 26 x 28. Fully stretched, 16 x 36. Going to shoot for the ironed gauge (26 x 28), and can go up to 40% negative ease. Size E is only 15% ease… hm.

Size D it is! (20% negative ease across bust)

Mmkay. I wish a schematic with all the finished measurements had been included. :/

Sleeves are fine as is (~14”, so 6% negative ease). I forgot about the cast on stitches, oops.

There’s no waist shaping, so I’ll have about 15% positive ease (~5”) there… Hm. I don’t know if I like that. Edit: I don’t like that. Worked out the basics of how I wanna shape this in a little drawing (added to the page).

Re-assessed my row gauge on the collar, since things change (especially in the round vs worked flat), and it’s easily sitting at 8 rows/inch now. Whew.

Having completed the collar, I see there is NO shaping to move the back neck up. For some folks that’s fine, but I personally detest when the back and front necks are the same height - it makes it feel like my clothes are strangling me. I also strongly suspect that’s why most projects have a weird little ripple at the front of the neck - the fabric is bunching up as there’s excess in the front. Though it could also be caused by the space between the neck and arm separation being too long for some folks, and with it being a close-fitting sweater, the excess fabric would want to ride up toward the narrower part of the body if given the chance.

Mods

• Extra-high foldover turtleneck: 5” (12.5cm) tall Note: 6 inches would’ve been better. 5” is acceptable though
• Short row shaping for back neck (14 total rows (7 ea side), 1.75 inch height difference) after round 3. This gives a total front neck depth of ((5 raglan + 5 shoulder sts) / (8 sts/in)) + 1.75 in = 3 inches. Suzanne Bryan has good short row instructions. Making two short rows (one pair) per outermost purl column of each repeat, on the back side of the intersection between the back and the sleeve. Doing this on round 4 of each repeat, for the first 7 repeats, which will give me my total of 7 pairs (14 short rows). Note: fewer (around 4-5 pairs instead of 7) would have been okay too
• Waist shaping (-40 sts total: 32 on front, and 8 on back. For the front, decrease 1 on both sides, every other round. For the back, decrease 1 on both sides, every 4th round; position is at the sides, directly under armpit) Note: this is different from what my quick schematic indicates because I was doing math while tired then
• Hip shaping: +64 sts. Increase for back at sides, 1 st either side every 4th round, for 16 total sts (2 repeats). Increase at front 2 ridges away from front decreases, 1 st at either side every other round, for total 48 sts (6 repeats).
• Sleeves about ~19” long from pickup at body. Start decreases after 7”. At hand, b/o 1 purl st, then work flat for several rows (with slipped stitch selvedge), then rejoin with a lifted right increase for a thumb slit.

Apr ‘23 measurements:
Bicep: 15” / 38 cm
Bust: 45.5” / 116 cm
Waist: 31.5” / 80 cm
Hip: 45” / 114 cm

Mar 25 - 2h30m.
Mar 26 - 3h10m. Added back neck shaping, and have finished with 3 repeats of the 8-round repeats. Total 5h40m.
Mar 31 - 3h30m. Added second hank of yarn. Done with repeat 6. Total 9h10m.
Apr 1 - 2hr15m. After an hour of knitting today, I pressed everything and tested the fit. I noticed that my short rows for back neck shaping were creating a bubble, which was not only unflattering, but also completely negated their function.
So I frogged back to the first repeat.
Ugh.
At least I know how to use short rows for bust shaping now, haha.

At the end of the day, I realized I’d rather spend an extra 6ish hours to get it right than make the whole thing and end up with a sweater I won’t wear. The really painful part is waiting for the yarn to dry so I can start knitting again! Total 11h25m.

Apr 2 - 1h55m. Done with first hank of yarn, and almost done with 4th repeat. Total 13h20m.
Apr 3 - 1h50m. Halfway finished with 6th repeat. Total 15h10m.
Apr 4 - 1h45m. Total 16h55m.
Apr 5 - 2h40m. Attached 3rd hank. Separated sleeves. I think I’ll continue working the body until I run out of yarn from this hank, and then I’ll switch to TAAT sleeves. Total 19h35m.
Apr 6 - 2h40m. Total 22h15m.
Apr 7 - 3h20m. Done with waist decreases. Added 4th hank; started sleeves. Total 25h35m.
Apr 8 - 2h30m. Total 28h5m.
Apr 9 - 1h25m. Started sleeves decreases. Finished 4th hank of yarn. Total 29h30m.
Apr 10 - 1h40m. Attached 5th hank (!!! already!) of yarn. Total 31h10m.
Apr 11 - 2h10m. Sleeve decreases complete. Did a fit check, and it’s pretty decent. Part of me thinks I could’ve started the sleeve decreases a couple inches earlier, then slowed the decreases (one every 3rd row?), but I kind of like the extra room in the upper arm. Total 33h20m.
Apr 12 - 2h20m. Done with the thumb holes. Total 35h40m.
Apr 13 - 2h5m. Finished sleeves. Attached 6th hank. I can’t believe I forgot about Russian joins! Ugh. Started weaving in ends, and continued the body. Total 37h45m.
Apr 14 - 2h5m. Started off with a fit test this morning - still really liking it! Finished waist, started hip shaping. Total 39h50m.
Apr 15 - 1h30m. Halfway done with hip increases. Total 41h20m.
Apr 16 - 45m. Total 42h5m.
Apr 20 - 1h5m. Total 43h10m.
Apr 21 - 25m. Total 43h35m.
Apr 22 - 50m. Total 44h25m.
Apr 23 - 3h. All done! Total 47h25m.