My own design (if you can call it a design), rough-and-tumble sweater knitting Elizabeth Zimmermann EPS style: in the round, steeked armholes, work out the details as you go along. It’s stockinette with a wide twisted-stitch panel down the front (Labyrinth, from Barbara Walker’s Charted Knitting Designs). Body is done and fits perfectly--now for the sleeves and neckband.

Hmm. Into hibernation while I think--armholes are way too deep, don’t know if there’s a way to alter it. Worth a try, because otherwise I love it.

11/11/13: Picked this back up - it’s complete but for one and a half sleeves. I will just live with the too-deep armholes (hence too-wide upper sleeve).

Note to self: working twists Barbara Walker style as follows:

RT: K2tog but leave stitches on needle; K first stitch, slip off needle.
LT: first, slip first st from left needle and remount backwords (much smoother results this way). Then, K 2nd st through back loop, leave on needle; K2tog through back loops and slip off.

Sleeve notes: Pick up 22 underarm stitches plus 50 stitches along each side (2 sts/3 rows) - 122 stitches. Begin cable pattern with row 14 of chart.
Gusset: Decrease 1 stitch each side 2 rows out of 3:
Dec rounds: 1,2 (row 14 & 15 of Labyrinth pattern)
4, 5 (17, 18 of pattern)
7,8 (20 & 21)
10, 11 (23 & 24)
13, 14 (2 & 3)
16, 17* (5 & 6) note: on rnd 17, dec. just 1 by K2togTBL
Round 18: no decrease
Round 19: first double decrease (before row 7 of Labyrinth pattern) - 99 stitches remain
NOW: K 3 rounds straight (rows 8-10 of pattern)
Then, work one double decrease every 5 rounds 20 times
(begin after row 11 of pattern) - 59 stitches remain.

on first sleeve, last of these dec was after row 5 of pattern. At this point, sleeve length = 15” and width 11.25”. Desired sleeve length: 23” total (1” long to allow for blousing) or about 8” more - last 2” in twisted rib. 6” = about 39 rounds. Finishing 5th repeat of pattern, and adding a point (through row 5 again), will be 24 rounds - so maybe work chart through round 15 to end inner cable on a point. Desired width above ribbing at wrist: about 10” or 45 stitches - so 7 more double decreases needed. Desired no. of ribbing sts at wrist 20% of K number (210) = 42 sts.

so: after 59 stitches, continue double dec every 5 rounds 6 more times - after rows 10, 15, 20, 1, 6, 11 of pattern. - 35 rounds, 47 stitches remain, length should be about 20.5”. Work straight through row 15 of pattern, ending inner cable at a point. Stop working outer cable after row 2; stop inner cable after row 14. Continue working straight to just shy of 21”. Next round: decrease 7 more stitches evenly spaced. Next round: begin ribbing; work 14 rounds twisted rib. EZ sewn bindoff.