See end of notes section for what to do differently next time.

Using the Addi Express 46 needle machine and a 5mm crochet hook. Centers are #4 scrap/stash yarns, and borders are in a neutral color (Lace, C.O.P.).

I used two videos on YouTube to get me started on this project.

VIDEO 1 This one: “Shelley’s Circle Square (Granny Square) Reversible Scarf/Shawl ~ Addi 46 Needle Machine” by Shelley Weibe Koala Knits and Knacks gave me the idea and helped me figure out the stitch counts. In it, she joins the circles with mattress stitching.

VIDEO 2 This one: “How to crochet grannysquares with a flat circle center made on your 22 needle knittingmachine.” by Miranda (Maak het met Miranda) helped me figure out how to crochet around the flattened circle turning it into a square.

MAKING THE CENTERS:
I grabbed all of my scraps (and a few whole skeins to get a lot of different colors).

I decided on a 36-round tube to make the largest square possible. For maximum color changes without too much torture, I did 6 rounds of CA, 6 rounds of CB, 6 rounds of CC (front of circle), then 18 rounds of CA again (back side of circle). The front side has 3 colors (plus a little of the back color), and the back color is solid.

I used an online randomizer to help me choose and vary the colors in some of the circles.

Yesterday I decided to also use my variegated scraps, so that allowed me to create quite a few other variations.

TURNING THE CIRCLES TO SQUARES:
On the first two practice squares, I decreased two of the sides in order to have the same number of stitches on each side. Shelley just has different numbers and Miranda increases on two sides so the sides are all the same.

Mattress stitching works the actual legs of the V stitches, while crocheting works under the bars between the legs of the V stitch. On the first one (blue, black, red), I worked under two bars of the front color resulting in some of CC showing on the back side.

On the second one, (purple, yellow, blue) I worked under one bar of each color resulting in some of the back CA color to show on the front side. I like the second one much better.

On mine, not including the corners:
-- with the decreases, each side has 10 stitches between the corners
-- with increases, each side will have 11 stitches between the corners

xXx OPTION 1 (decreasing on two sides)
Each finished square about 8.75” across.
ROUND 1: Corners: 2tc,ch2,2tc
Sides: dc in first, hdc in next 8, dc in next (10 sts between corners)
Alt sides: dc in first, hdc in 3, hdc dec, hdc in next 4, dc in next
(both have 14 sts per side including corners)
ROUND 2; Corners: 2dc,ch2,2dc
Sides: DC in each stitch around
(both have 18 sts per side including corners)

THE WINNER!
OPTION 2 (increasing on two sides)
-working in two bars at top of V stitch, the last bar in CC on the front side and the first bar CA on the back side. This shifts the colors slightly so that one round of CA from the back side shows on the front side (instead of one round of CC showing on the back side).

• Count/Mark corner sts on circles as follows, being sure to count the final st also as the first stitch of the next side: … #1 and #12 … #1 (already marked as prev. #12) and #13 … #1 (already marked as prev. #13) and #12 … #1 (already marked as prev. #12) and #13 (same as very first st.)

ROUND 1: Corners: 2tc,ch2,2tc
START WITH TC,CH2,2TC, so that the beginning of ROUND 2 will start in the corner.
Sides: dc in 2, hdc in next 7, dc in next 2 (15 sts/side incl. corners)
Alt sides: dc in 2, hdc in 2, hdc inc, hdc in next 3, dc in next 2 (15 sts/side incl. corners)
END WITH FINAL TC in the corner, join to first, slst into ch2 space.
ROUND 2; Corners: 2dc,ch2,2dc
START WITH dc,CH2,2dc, so that the beginning of ROUND 2 will start in the corner.
END WITH FINAL dc in the corner, join to first, slst into ch2 space.
Fasten off.

Sides: DC in each stitch around
(19 sts per side including corners)

UPDATE 1/20/25
20 circles knitted and closed.

UPDATE 1/21/25
All original circles have reinforced centers. When I was closing them at Tammy’s, a few of the yarns broke while I was tying off. I couldn’t remember which ones that happened with, so I went back and reinforced all of them.

Using Option 2 to turn the circles to squares (which is to increase on two sides of the circle to make the 4 sides equal (15 sts/side), and for each side to start and end with 2 dc with 7 hdc between), creates a finished square of 8.5”.

After blocking, the squares may be slightly larger. I do want to stretch them so that the middle circle doesn’t puff up so much.

AND/OR: In a further effort to reduce the puff, I might reduce the size of the circles on the next batch I knit. Maybe instead of each of the three colors being 6 rounds and the back being 18, I’ll do 5 rounds CA, 5 rounds CB, 6 rounds CC, and 16 rounds CA again for the back.

Lunch break: All corners were counted and marked before work this morning, so I was able to get 3 squares finished on my lunch break.

UPDATE 1/22/25
I pulled out my granny square blocking board, but I think it would work better with smaller squares. Not sure. I may have to pin and steam them as I normally do so that the sides are straight and not pointy. Maybe it wouldn’t matter, but I don’t want to go through all the hassle only to find this blocking board won’t work for what I need this time.

Squares pulled taut on the blocking board measure 9.5”.

UPDATE 1/27/25
After posting in the Finish or Frog it forum, the responses convinced me I needed to block properly even though I really hoped to skip that step. Before work, I was able to get 12 on the mats before I ran out of pins and mats, and I also steamed all of them. I pinned them at 9” (not 9.5”), so I hope that’s sufficient. I do notice that a couple of the circles aren’t centered in the squares, so I might have to repin/resteam all of these after work. I sure hope not, though

UPDATE 1/30/25
All blocked and ready for joining.

Decided to use the seamless lacy JAYG method in this video(/people/Jspcreate). It’s similar to one I’ve used before, but it’s different enough to feel new. I probably should move my numbers around, but I trust myself to pay attention. I’ll start R1 with square 4 and work to square 1, then R2 will be #5-#8, R3 #9-#12, R4 #13-#16, R5 #17-#20.

NOTE: I went up a hook size to a 5.5mm because it seemed to be pulling in when I used a 5mm. It’s even possible I should have switched to a 6mm instead of trying to crochet loosely with the 5.5mm.

In theory, all of the sides of my squares have 19 stitches between the corners. I’ve come across a couple that were either 18 or 20, but I was easily able to make adjustments in the join.

As of this morning before work, I have 5 or 6 squares joined. It’s pretty fast, but it’ll go faster when I have the system down.

UPDATE 1/31/25
As of this morning, I have joined 12 squares and sewn in most ends on those. There may be a couple of stragglers. I also brought the remaining squares to work with me so I can sew in all of those ends before joining them.

I realized that I forgot to flip all the squares over to be sure that arrangement also looks random. I’ve decided to not worry about and just let it be a surprise. After I noticed the first 3 were pink, and the next 2 were purple, I haven’t looked.

ESTIMATED final measurement:
36” wide x 45” tall

FINISHED 2/1/25
Still need final photos, but haven’t had a sunny day since I finished.

After the lacy JAYG join, I WENT UP A HOOK SIZE AGAIN to a 6mm and did another round of the linen stitch (sc,ch1,sk1). It needed straightening in some places, and that seemed to help.

The back was completely random, which goes against everything I believe in, but it turned out okay.

NEXT TIME:

1. I would definitely make the center circles smaller. There’s so much extra fabric, which on one hand is good because it used up scraps, but it would look better without all that I think.
2. I might actually join with white instead of beige. I don’t hate the beige, and maybe it’s just how much it blends with the carpet that bothers me, but I like the idea of white.
3. Learn more about blocking properly.