The following are my knitting notes as I was knitting the piece, so they’re a little abbreviated and perhaps disjointed.

Twisted stitch patterns are different ones from the book Twisted-Stitch Knitting: Traditional Patterns & Garments from the Styrian Enns Valley
by Maria Erlbacher (Author), Meg Swansen (Editor), Amy Detjen (Editor)

About 24” long, about 40” bust/hip

My various gauges:
US 7, 18 sts in 4”, 4.5 sts/in in stockinette stitch
US 7, slightly stretched, 22 sts = 4” in ribbing, about 5.5 sts/in
US 7, unstretched, 24 sts in 4” = 6 sts/in in twisted stitch pattern
US 7, unstretched, 80 sts in 12.75” = 6.27 sts/in in twisted stitch pattern
US 7, slightly stretched, 12 sts in 2.5” = 4.8 sts/in in twisted stitch pattern
US 7, slightly stretched, 21 sts in 4” = 5.25 sts/in in twisted stitch pattern

Twisted stitch pattern from sock pattern on pages 124-125 plus middle section (26 sts) of calf gusset from pages 132-133, 106 sts for one side. Decrease and increase as per calf gusset pattern.

Back:
page 125 (31 sts) + page 124 (49 sts)
Sides (x2):
pages 132-133, center (26 sts). Started 3 rows before starting decreases. Decreased to 14 sts, but instead of 4 purl stitches in the center, I did p1, 2-st cable, p1. For first increase, I increased 2 purl stitches so center was p2, 2-st cable, p2, then did 1 round without increasing. For rest of increases, I didn’t like how the fabric looked with the increases on consecutive rows so I inserted a row in pattern between any consecutive increases (except for the last two increases, I did not insert an extra round and instead did 2 consecutive increases and then crossed the 2 stitches to match the crossed stitches on either side), which increased the row count by 9 (1.5”).
Left front:
page 125 (31 sts) + top 8 st pattern from page 133 + 2 purl sts
Right front:
2 purl sts + bottom 8 st pattern from page 133 + page 124 minus center pattern (31 sts)
In between left and right fronts, 5 knit stitches for steek
Total: 219 sts

CO 217 sts with a US 9 needle and Norwegian cast on, then switched to US 7. First 5 sts are steek.
k4p2 ribbing for 2”, start and end with p2 (not counting steek).
Increase 2 sts (219 sts), then start twisted stitch patterns
3 rows without decreases, then pattern decreases 12 sts in 22 rows (3.7”), about 6.2” from CO, about top of waistband
work 1.5”
Inc pattern increases 12 sts in 25 rows (4.2”)
Started armholes at 15” from cast on.

Did armhole and sleeve cap at same time in the round so no seaming.
BO 6 sts each underarm, then joined sleeves (see sleeves section below)
Dec 1 st each armhole each side (4 sts each round) over 10 rows (16” shoulder width, 32” circumference)
Fronts; work for 36 more rows before starting neck (47th row)
Back: Work for 43 more rows before starting shoulder (54th row).

Sleeves:
Aiming for approx 17.5” long before sleeve cap shaping.

CO 60 sts in the round
(k4p2) ribbing for 2”
Work twisted stitch patterns (middle 3 motifs and outside 2 motifs), increasing 1 st every 3 rows 24 times to 82 sts using the middle 26-stitch calf pattern starting from the row with 4 sts, and adding an extra purl st on either side of middle 8-st motif. Work until 17.5”.

ARMHOLES: aiming for 9” deep = 54 rows
Sleeve cap = 41 rows (3/4 of 54)
BO edge = 2.25 (925%) x 2 = about 22-27 sts

sleeve: 82 sts
BO 6 sts underarm, join with body.
Sleeve cap shaping:
For each sleeve cap, dec 28 sts over 28 rows — dec 2 sts (1 st at each seam) every other row 14 times until 48 sts left
Last 11 rows ( 20% of 54 rows) dec 2 sts (1 st at each seam) every row
BO 24 sts (41 rows total)

Body:
Work circularly (with steek) for neck but work back and forth for shoulders.
Neck: BO 8 sts, then cast on 5 sts for steek. Decrease 1 st each row at neck edge 6 times. Then start shoulders on next row.

Shoulders for fronts:
BO 5 sts at shoulders, dec 1 st at neck edge (work back and forth from this point on).
Work even
Repeat twice more
BO

Shoulders for back: (work back and forth)
BO 5 sts beg of 6 rows, then 8 sts beg of 2 rows. BO.

Seamed shoulders. Sewed bound off edges of sleeve caps to shoulders. Inside, I sewed up the shoulder seams a little where they seemed a bit loose.

Collar:
Picked up 89 sts around neck.
P4, (k1, p4) around, knitting and purling through the back loops on the first row.
Increase 9 purl sts around, then knit plain 5 rows. Repeat increase to k4, (p2, k4) around. Pattern until 3.5”. BO.

Zipper:
Hung up the sweater and measured front, then ordered appropriate length zipper. Pinned zipper in place, then hand-basted, then sewed zipper edges to knitting using hemming stitch.

End thoughts:
I absolutely love this sweater! The different shades of pink are perfect and the zipper is so much nicer than buttons.

I could not have made this without steeking, because knitting twisted stitches back and forth is torture. When I had to do the shoulders back and forth, for the wrong side, I had to slip the stitches in the correct alignment first, then go back and knit it.

I thought about steeking the sleeve caps instead of knitting them at the same time as the body, but the resulting seam would have been a bit bulky since both the sleeve cap and the armholes would have been steeked. The armholes lose some firmness because they’re not seamed, but I’d rather spend a few minutes doing a manual reinforcement of the seams than living with a bulky seam at my armholes. In future, I think I will do a couple extra stitches selvedge at each armhole seam and see how that works.