cyndiepooh > notebook > projects > striped ribbed booties

striped ribbed booties
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final result =) took a lot of in progress photos and made notes i hope i can follow to make again.
final result =) took a lot of in progress photos and made notes i hope i can follow to make again.
wasn't sure this was enough for tops from the watercolor, so decided on stripes
wasn't sure this was enough for tops from the watercolor, so decided on stripes
to work double sided sc sole, ch12, turn, sc11 across to make base. for pattern stitch, insert hook under closest loop from chain and closest loop from sc as shown. work total of 11sc. ch1, turn
to work double sided sc sole, ch12, turn, sc11 across to make base. for pattern stitch, insert hook under closest loop from chain and closest loop from sc as shown. work total of 11sc. ch1, turn
gets easier to see where hook needs to go after that. work in similar manner across row. this is first round (front and back) of double sided stitch
gets easier to see where hook needs to go after that. work in similar manner across row. this is first round (front and back) of double sided stitch
work 11 rounds in buff. round should begin and end on opposite side of tail. this project is one of the few that i leave tails dangling until the end
work 11 rounds in buff. round should begin and end on opposite side of tail. this project is one of the few that i leave tails dangling until the end
join in watercolor without cutting yarn and work one round. resume with buff without cutting watercolor.
join in watercolor without cutting yarn and work one round. resume with buff without cutting watercolor.
work 11 more rounds in buff, then fasten it off. orient rectangle for sole to pick up and work with the watercolor still attached and so that the round that needs to be closed is on top.
work 11 more rounds in buff, then fasten it off. orient rectangle for sole to pick up and work with the watercolor still attached and so that the round that needs to be closed is on top.
this is what i mean by the side that needs to be closed
this is what i mean by the side that needs to be closed
pick up the watercolor, yarn over, and work a dc in the end of the first buff round after the stripe. work nine more evenly spaced along rows. turn work 1/4 to work next side.
pick up the watercolor, yarn over, and work a dc in the end of the first buff round after the stripe. work nine more evenly spaced along rows. turn work 1/4 to work next side.
work sc as for double sided round, then dc9 in similar manner, sc in last sc, quarter turn.
work sc as for double sided round, then dc9 in similar manner, sc in last sc, quarter turn.
work 10 dc in buff section row end to mirror other side
work 10 dc in buff section row end to mirror other side
work one dc in contrast round. mark this halfway stitch if you chose not to change colors.
work one dc in contrast round. mark this halfway stitch if you chose not to change colors.
repeat same border on other end (dc10, sc1, dc9 ,sc1, dc10) ending with dc in contrast stripe. change to buff with last pull through of dc. do not join. pattern spirals.
repeat same border on other end (dc10, sc1, dc9 ,sc1, dc10) ending with dc in contrast stripe. change to buff with last pull through of dc. do not join. pattern spirals.
work front post dc (fpdc) around post of first dc in last round.
work front post dc (fpdc) around post of first dc in last round.
work back post dc (bpdc) in next dc. continue in this alternating pattern around. the corresponding dc stitches in the stripe should have bpdc. skip sc stitches in corners.
work back post dc (bpdc) in next dc. continue in this alternating pattern around. the corresponding dc stitches in the stripe should have bpdc. skip sc stitches in corners.
stitch should look like this. on last stitch, change to watercolor and do another round. change to buff.
stitch should look like this. on last stitch, change to watercolor and do another round. change to buff.
the two boots are made basically the same, but on one I work the toe first and on the other I work the heel first. to begin toe shaping, start next row with fpdc only, skipping all bpdc stitches as i have tried to indicate, over to stripe.
the two boots are made basically the same, but on one I work the toe first and on the other I work the heel first. to begin toe shaping, start next row with fpdc only, skipping all bpdc stitches as i have tried to indicate, over to stripe.
15 fpdc for toe. then resume alternating. change to watercolor
15 fpdc for toe. then resume alternating. change to watercolor
on next row, fpdc2tog until you are back around to where you have bpdc stitiches. show fpdc2tog in progess on hook. should have seven. then continue in alternating pattern around. change to buff.
on next row, fpdc2tog until you are back around to where you have bpdc stitiches. show fpdc2tog in progess on hook. should have seven. then continue in alternating pattern around. change to buff.
on this row, fbdc under the fpdc2tog as indicated, then resume alternating pattern.
on this row, fbdc under the fpdc2tog as indicated, then resume alternating pattern.
continue alternating the rounds of fpdc2tog and fpdc under the fpdc2tog until the front shaping is down to just the single fpdc.
continue alternating the rounds of fpdc2tog and fpdc under the fpdc2tog until the front shaping is down to just the single fpdc.
i find that a good height for the bootie is three more rounds after that point. fasten off.
i find that a good height for the bootie is three more rounds after that point. fasten off.
for the second bootie, i worked the heel ribbing part first, and the toe shaping part starting with the halfway around stripe. I indicated which i worked first with the blue markers.
for the second bootie, i worked the heel ribbing part first, and the toe shaping part starting with the halfway around stripe. I indicated which i worked first with the blue markers.
i don't think it changes the shaping except for putting the beginnings as indicated by these markers at the arch on each foot. so if working toe first doesn't make sense, just do two the same.
i don't think it changes the shaping except for putting the beginnings as indicated by these markers at the arch on each foot. so if working toe first doesn't make sense, just do two the same.
looks interesting from the inside, too. May call this the right side on a future pair.
looks interesting from the inside, too. May call this the right side on a future pair.
after playing with lining other attempts, decided to add heel stablization from ridge to ridge (featured here) around heel. not needed if slippers are just for sitting.
after playing with lining other attempts, decided to add heel stablization from ridge to ridge (featured here) around heel. not needed if slippers are just for sitting.
took lots of step by step photos but they weren't clear in the matching yarn. starting at the instep, work an sc into the front post ch 1 repeat around to other ridge. quarter turn work to continue pattern to next row up, then quarter turn and work back to other ridge.
took lots of step by step photos but they weren't clear in the matching yarn. starting at the instep, work an sc into the front post ch 1 repeat around to other ridge. quarter turn work to continue pattern to next row up, then quarter turn and work back to other ridge.
fasten off after six rows of stablizing. weave in ends.
fasten off after six rows of stablizing. weave in ends.
slippers are standing by themselves here. much sturdier.
slippers are standing by themselves here. much sturdier.
still cozy for sitting and grab heel better for being active.
still cozy for sitting and grab heel better for being active.
photos above © cyndiepooh
Finished
December 19, 2017
December 20, 2017

striped ribbed booties

Project info
Crochet
Hooks & yarn
4.0 mm (G)
Red Heart Super Saver (Multis | Prints )
318 Watercolor
Red Heart Super Saver (Solids)
334 Buff
Notes

Found this leftover skein of watercolor that I had only made a cap from and paired it with buff I purchased to complete a project I abandoned instead. Thought buff would be a great color for soles, but wasn’t sure I had enough watercolor for tops. Rolled it into two approximately even balls and cut the yarn, thinking I would use buff on the cuffs if it did run out, then changed my mind and decided that stripes would be easier to follow to create a pattern.

Truth be told, as I giddily finished the second boot, I realized I had finished the first boot on a buff row but the second was on a watercolor. After examining both, I discovered I had repeated a row on the first boot. So I frogged back and fixed it. Don’t think I included any photos of the error. So it never happened XD

My intention was to create a sole that would not wear a hole through after just a few wears. Will note if this is sturdy if I remember.

12-21-2017

Was tightening up some of my experimental boots with a front post sc, ch1 repeat from the inside, and decided the heel stabilization should be a regular part of the boot pattern. Added photos.

viewed 3 times
Finished
December 19, 2017
December 20, 2017
About this pattern
Personal pattern (not in Ravelry)
About this yarn
Super Saver (Solids)
by Red Heart
Aran
100% Acrylic
364 yards / 198 grams

320498 projects

stashed 109131 times

cyndiepooh's star rating
About this yarn
Super Saver (Multis | Prints )
by Red Heart
Aran
100% Acrylic
244 yards / 141 grams

60337 projects

stashed 25396 times

cyndiepooh's star rating
  • Project created: December 20, 2017
  • Finished: December 20, 2017
  • Updated: January 5, 2018