11-10-2020
Copied notes from https://www.ravelry.com/projects/saileach/pfeilraupe. Originally Gasabgirl’s https://www.ravelry.com/projects/gasabgirl/pfeilraupe. Will add my own as I progress. My additions in boldface and/or in square brackets.
“Notes: Sl 1 = Slip 1 wyif, SM = Stitch marker
For a cleaner edge on future projects I’ll use a slip stitch edge.
I used the Chinese waitress cast on with a crochet hook. so did I
Cast on 12 st, place a SM, @cast on 11 st, place SM, @repeat * to * until you have used 25 stitch markers, then cast on 12 more stitches for a total of 288 stitches only repeat the 11 stitches and SM, ‘@cast on 11 st, place SM@’
R1: Sl 1, k5, turn
R2: Sl 1, k to end, turn
R3 Sl 1, k to stitch marker (SM), turn
R4: Sl 1, k to end
R5: Sl 1, k to SM, slip SM, K5, turn
R6: Sl 1, k to end
R7: Sl 1, slipping 1st SM, k to 2nd SM, turn
R8: Sl 1, k or 2nd to last st, kfb in next st, k last st
Slip 1st two SMs from here on out. The slots will always be worked between those two markers so they need to stay to make life easier!
R9: Sl 1, k 5 st past 2nd SM, turn
R10: Sl 1, k to end
R11: Sl 1, k to next SM (remember to slip 1st two SM), turn but don’t remove the marker
R12: Sl 1, k to end
R13: Sl 1, k to next SM and remove it (again, remember to slip 1st two), K5, turn
R14: Sl 1, k to end
R15: Repeat row 11
R16: Sl 1, k to 2nd to last st, kfb in next st, k the last st
R17-18: repeat rows 13-14
R19-24: repeat rows 11-16
R25-32: repeat rows 17-24
Now for the 1st slot (I found this to be helpful)
R33: Sl 1, k to 1st SM, insert left needle into the back loop of the stitch on the right needle that was just knitted
Wrap the yarn around the left needle as if to knit and pull up a loop. You should have one loop on each needle. Slip the loop on the left needle purl wise onto the right needle.
Knit the 1st st after the SM then using the left needle, pull the just slipped stitch up and over the just knitted st.
Bind off all 11 stitches between the first two SMs.
k to the next SM and remove it, k 5 more st, turn
R34:
I used this: https://thisisknit.ie/blogs/tik-knits/pfeilraupe-slots
Sl 1, k to the SM where we finished the bind off, turn the work for cast on
Slip the SM. Insert the right needle into the back loop of the last st as if to knit and pull up a loop (going into the back loop will help keep the stitches tight to prevent holes). Do not slide the stitch off of the left needle. The loop on the right needle is used to cast on 11 st using the Chinese waitress cast on. The last loop on the right needle after completing the cast on will become the 1st st after the next SM so keep it on the right needle. Make sure you have 11 st between the SMs and a loop on the right needle, then turn the work.
Push the stitches on the left needle closer to the loop held over from the cast on. Make sure that the yarn is behind the work the pull the 2nd loop on the left needle up and over the loop held over from cast on (just like binding off). Pull the yarn to tighten the stitches so there won’t be a hole in the work.
k to the end of the row
R35-40: repeat rows 11-16
R41-56: repeat rows 17-24 twice
R57-58: repeat rows 13-14
R59-60: repeat rows 11-12
R61-62: repeat rows 33-34 for the slot (there should be 13 ridges between the first two slots).
R63-64: repeat rows 15-16
R65-88: repeat rows 17-24 three times
R89-90: repeat rows 33-34 for the slot (there should be 12 ridges between the second and third slots).
R91-96: repeat rows 11-16
R97-104: repeat rows 17-24 (note that on row 103 there is no marker to knit to. Just knit to the st before the selvage stitch, then turn, knit 4, place a SM and continue working row 104.
Congratulations! You’re halfway finished!
R105: k to last SM and remove it, turn
R106: work double st, k 10, place SM, knit to end
R107: k to last SM and slip it, k6, turn
R108: work double st, k to end
R109: k to last SM and remove it, turn
R110: work double st, k 10, place SM, knit to end
R111: k to last SM and slip it, k6, turn
R112: work double st, k to 2nd to last st, kfb in next st, k the last st
Continue to work these 8 rows until the second half is complete, working slots on rows 117-118, 145-146, and 173-174.
Bind off using k2tog method (be sure to work the double stitches as one stitch) for a little bit of stretch and weave in ends.“
16-10-2020
Instructions from Alpi’s PDF (it makes sense now):
Setup
Start with a crochet cast on (see knitting book “aufhäkeln”). Please make the first cast- on stitch as shown here. Cast on 12 sts, place a SM, cast on 11 more sts, place another SM, repeat from * to * until you have used all 25 SM. Then cast on 12 more sts for a total of 288 sts on the needle.
Lower Long Bevelled Edge
The lower long edge is formed by a series of short rows. I have not worked the classic German short rows with a double stitch here, but simply turned the work, slipped first stitch with the yarn in front and well tightened the yarn, so that the stitches are neat and firm. This gives a nicer edge than double stitches.
The lengthening of the rows takes place by alternating series of 5-stitch and 6-stitch short rows where the SM will serve as reference points.
The first short row is 5 stitches long plus the SS. The second short row goes to the first SM. The third is 5 sts past the SM. The fourth goes again to the next SM. Repeat the alternating rhythm described for the third and fourth short rows to the tip.
The first two SMs are slipped and left in place, they serve as markers for the slits, see diagram.
Remove the other SMs as you work the return row, after you slipped the SM in the lengthened row and knitted 5 more sts.
The stitch markers help to stay perfectly in rhythm because you know that when you just slipped the next SM, 5 sts must be knitted. In the next ridge you knit again to the next SM and have so a perfect 6 sts step without counting. ;-)
Short Bevelled Edge
At the same time, on the right selvage edge of the work, on each fourth ridge on the back row, the last sts before the selvage stitch is doubled (kfb) and thus makes the inclination of the short edge.
Slits
The first slit is made in the 17th ridge (= 14th ridge counted from the edge of 4th step). On the chart at the end you can see exactly how this is meant. We cast off in the right
Instructions for private use only! Sale of the manual and commercial use not permitted! ©Alpi/Alpenrose
https://alpis-farbenrausch.blogspot.com/❀ https://alpistrickbuch.blogspot.com
Alpis Pfeilraupe© Translation Cloclo❀Page 3 of 6
side row. To get a neat transition, I formed a loop out of the last knitted stitch (the one on the right needle). This loop is used to cast off the first stitch (attention, the loop does not count!), then cast off 11 sts. Take care to tighten the first couple of sts after the cast off.
The 11 sts will be crochet cast on again In the wrong side row. For this, insert the needle into the last stitch on the left needle, turn the needle clockwise to the front as to twist the right stitch; this is the first loop for the crochet cast on and helps avoiding a too elongated stitch and an untidy slit foundation.
The first loop is the first sts after the slit, i.e. the next sts will simply be slipped over, tighten well.
Please take note of the illustrated instructions “Knitting decorative slits” in Alpis Strickbuch“. Start by dropping 11 stitches in the right side row.It’s not tragic if the transition does not look perfectly neat, one won’t see it when worn anyway ;).
Shawl Tip
On the 7th ridge after the third slit, you get to the tip: after knitting the turning stitch knit only 6 sts, the last one being the selvage stitch which simply remains unknitted. To work the tip more accentuated, the short rows are slightly offset, i.e. after the double stitch knit only 4 sts, place SM = next turning point, knit to the end of the row.
Upper Long Bevelled Edge
From here on, you work back again with short rows. Use a SM to make your life easier. At this point, you work double stitches (classical German short row technique) as turning stitches!
You should now have at least 60% of yarn remaining!
Knitting the second half is actually the same as the first one but in reverse, the rows getting shorter instead of longer. This means the next ridge is worked to the SM, remove it, turn work, work a double stitch, knit 10 sts, place SM knit to end of row.
In the next ridge knit to SM, slip SM, knit 6 more sts, turn work, work double stitch, knit to end of row.
On the following ridge knit to SM, remove SM, turn work, work double stitch, knit 10 sts, place SM, knit to end of row.
Repeat these two rows until there are no more stitches left.
!!! Don’t forget to continue the increases at the short edge as before and also don’t forget the slits !!!
Finishing
Cast off all stitches knitwise until you reach the first stitch. This stitch is sewn together with the yarn tail for a neat tip. Weave in ends, soak, lay out to dry or block gently as desired and look forward to your dry Pfeilraupe.
Have fun trying how many ways the shawl Pfeilraupe can be worn.
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