10.5 inches long after washing and blocking.
A hat to match my Irish Hiking Scarf. I’ve got some yarn leftover, so I figured I’d make a set.
I’m going to try something new and develop my own pattern, based on my gauge and yarn. This hat has 96 stitches and repeats the cable 8 times around.
CO 96
K2 P2 ribbing for 2.5 inches (brim will fold up)
Start cables:
Row 1-7: (K2 P2 K6 P2) 8 times
Row 8: (K2 P2 Cf6 P2) 8 times
Repeat Rows 1-8 5 more times (6 times total)
You should now have approx. 9 inches of knitting from cast-on edge
Begin decreases:
(K2, P2tog, K6, P2tog) 8 times (80 sts)
Knit 2 rows in pattern
K1, (SSK, K6, K2tog) 8 times (when you get to the last K2tog, you’ll need to shift the round marker one stitch to the left, taking the first st of the next row into the decrease) (64 sts)
Knit 2 rows plain (the purls should be gone now)
(K2tog, K4, SSK) 8 times (48 sts)
(The next knit row should be your cable row. Cable as usual)
Knit 2 rows plain
(K2tog, K2, SSK) 8 times (32 sts)
Knit 2 rows plain
(K2tog, SSK) 8 times (16 sts)
move immediately to last decrease with no plain rounds between:
K2tog all the way around (8 sts)
Break yarn, thread on tapestry needle and pass through live stitches to fasten off. Weave in ends.
12-09-2016
I’m an amateur when it comes to designing knits. I spent a lot of time deciding how I should manage the decreases at the top of the hat. Which should I decrease first: the cables or the ribbing between them?
I ended up decreasing the ribbing first, and then the cables. If I did this again, I might try doing it the other way around. It would be interesting to see the difference.