Will modify similarly to my 1st one: https://www.ravelry.com/projects/kayray/hidden-light-card...
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I rewrote the pattern because I’m not insane and I do not wish to knit a sweater in 5 pieces and then sew them together; so I’m knitting fronts and back in one piece and will do knit-in set-in sleeves a la Barbara Walker. (Also the collar as written was TERRIBLE. Keep reading.)
Also, since you’re picking up button bands later, do NOT do a chain edging! (You only want a chain edging on edges that will show) Therefore every RS row starts and ends with k3; every WS row starts and ends with p3.
Knitting the third size (40.75) at pretty close to gauge.
So: Making the third size, so I cast on 192 stitches for the fronts and back together. (skip both selvedge stitches on the back and one selvedge stitch on each front, since there won’t be any side seams, so for the third size it’s 102 + 45 + 45 = 192)
Three-needle bind off at shoulders is the perfect shoulder seam for a ribbing pattern like this. (October 15th 2018) A try-on at this point indicated that this size is perfect!
Total body length: 90 garter ridges (180 rows)
Sleeves worked from the shoulder to wrist following Barbara Walker’s “knitted set-in sleeves” instructions in “Knitting from the Top”. Sleeves worked flat, then seamed.
Total sleeve length: 80 garter ridges (160 rows)
COLLAR NOTES:
The collar and button bands, as written, are terrible. There’s no nicer way to put it. The buttonholes don’t line up properly, and the fabric bunches under the fold of the collar. The shawl collar was not tall enough for my son’s taste, also, but that’s not the pattern’s fault.
So I ripped the entire collar and button bands out and re-knit my own way as follows:
Pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows all the way around from front edge to front edge. (stitch for stitch across the live stitches at back of neck)
(Clip a couple markers to the fabric at the first front decreases so you know where they are, if you haven’t already. Those are the Neck Markers.)
Work collar and button bands in 2x2 ribbing (but make first and last rib k3 so they look right)
Make a shawl collar. I wanted a nice deep collar so I started with a lot of stitches to work back and forth across. “Girl Friday” is a free pattern with a shawl collar, in case you need instructions: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/PATTgirlfriday.php except I did wrap-and-turn at the row ends.
When your shawl shaping is done, work until you’re ready to make buttonholes. (1.5”) Then make buttonholes, then work until the band is the right depth.
Cast off normally to neck markers (where the shawl starts) then use Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Cast-Off around the neck to the other neck marker. This ensures that the edge will have enough stretch the lie properly when folded back.
Other changes: no breast pocket, no stockinette cuffs -- just garter rib right down to the wrists.
I bought 8 skeins of yarn but 7 was plenty so now I have 100+ grams left over for other things!