This is the second time I’ve used this pattern, but I’m following the instructions more closely this time. Thought I’d matched both stitch and row gauge (a rare thing for me), but my stitch gauge turned out to be a little too tight. So I ended up adding a few more stitches than what is called for in the Large size (prior to separating sleeves from body). I did the exact number of rows/rounds indicated in the pattern however (60 in my case).

I held two yarns together to get an aran weight. The resulting fabric was quite dense, but attractive nonetheless. I think that adding the Woolike will make the garment wear better as well as darken it. The “Stovepipe” color appears to be charcoal in artificial light but in natural light, it’s clearly a navy blue. The woolike is a true dark black, so the resulting color combo was much more what I was aiming for.

I knit this for my brother-in-law. He’s never around for fittings, so I’m hoping that this will fit him. If not, his son or daughter will surely make use of it.

I think that this pattern would be confusing for a beginning knitter since there are several instructions (for the V-neck version) that you must all do simultaneously at the beginning. It’s actually much easier than it seems. I simply made my own little graphic chart with 60 rows/rounds, and then indicated next to them whether the increasing would be for front, back, sleeves or neckline. Half the time it was all three at the same time.

There are unique instructions and measurements for men and women which was a great feature of the pattern in addition to many sizes. Heidi’s designs and patterns are always great.

I did not follow the instructions for the neckband. Instead, I did it similar to what I did for this pullover.

Construction:

The pattern starts out with the BOR marker 1 stitch away from the right front raglan marker. At first, you knit flat back and forth, increasing (kf&b) for front, sleeves and back until you reach the point of the V-neck. At that point, you join in the round. It’s circular knitting from this point on. There are additional increases until you reach the desired armhole depth. Then sleeves are put on holders and extra stitches cast on under the arms (6 under each arm in my case).

When I reached the desired armhole depth (9.5”), my stitches were as follows:

Sleeves - 64 sts each
Front - 98 sts
Back - 98 sts

So I had 196 sts around prior to starting the lower ribbing. I increased 32 sts prior to the lower ribbing (M1L after every 6 sts) because I don’t like the ribbing to pull in at the bottom.

196 + 32 = 228 sts total for ribbing

Neckband - Pick up sts as follows:

Back - 37 sts
Sleeves - 5 sts
Left front - 28 sts
Right front - 28 sts
Center front - 1 st
Total for neckband - 104 sts

Modified Center Double Decrease Video
(Used for V at neckline)

Sleeves:

Put 64 held sts on needles and picked up 8 sts under arm. Decreased 2 sts on next round.

Knit 10 rounds. Dec 2 sts on next round. (68 sts)

Knit 9 rounds. Dec 2 sts on next round. (66 sts)

Knit 8 rounds. Dec 2 sts on next round. (64 sts)

Knit 7 rounds. Dec 2 sts on next round. (62 sts)

Knit 6 rounds. Dec sts on next round (60 sts)

Repeat above line 8 more times. (44 sts)

Switch to size 5 US needle.

Did 17 rounds of 1 x 1 ribbing before binding off with JSSBO (same size needle).

Weight of finished garment: 1 lb. 7 oz (652 grams)

Needles used:

Size 7 US Addi - Body and sleeves (Used Susan Bates for the yoke area)

Size 6 US - Neckband ribbing, including standard bind-off

Size 5 US - Lower and sleeve ribbing

Size 2 US - Lower ribbing bind off only (JSSBO)

Finished garment measurements.

Chest circumference: 44”

Back length (not including neckband) - 24”

Side length from underarm - 14.5” (11.5” + 3” ribbing)
urements:
Sleeve length from underarm - 19” (16” + 3” ribbing)

Neckband width - 1.25”

Armhole depth - 9.5”

Diagonal raglan - 12”

V-neck depth - 4.25” (to point of V = 6”)