Several modifications to knit in the round and avoid bulging/curling hem, see below.
I started out with the smallest size, which would have been roomy for me. I’m using an aran weight wool/silk yarn that is light in weight.
After 200 grams of yarn and finishing the back shaping, I measured and found that my gauge was slightly off, so that a large sweater was going to be sloppy large. Instead of 4.5” it was more like 4.31 and my 190 inch circumference was about 44 inches.
I’m going to try this again at 172 stitches to make it closer to 40 inch circumference.
The other thing I noticed is that the faced hem rolls and also bulges, I suspect because a smaller gauge needle is used on the back and the front at the larger gauge has to bend to meet the same number of stitches. I did an extra row of stitches for the facing (five instead of four) and used a needle two sizes smaller for the facing, to help make it tend inwards, not curl out. I also don’t want a loose sweatshirt styling at the shoulders, so will do some form of knit in the round set in or hybrid slope shoulder a la Elizabeth Zimmerman.
Started sleeves at 40 stitches instead of 44 and increased every 10 stitches until sleeves 17 inches long and 64 stitches around (36% of body -- 60 stitches would have been enough 34%). Using hybrid shoulder math, setting aside 10 stitches (nearly 6%) under the arms before uniting arms and body on a single set of needles.
EZ hybrid shoulder method is to reduce 8 stitches every 3 rows, evenly. I am going to reduce 12 stitches every 4 rows: on body, four body stitches every four rows, and four sleeve stitches every two rows. When I got to almost zero stitches on the arms, I switched to back and forth on the few stitches left (about 10) and used short rows to shape the shoulders before completing the neck. Rather than tack down the facing, I used a crochet hook to crochet it to the inside of the sweater. I made the neck edge shorter than the pattern, only about an inch and a quarter.
Sweater fits well, will be very warm. The ribbed texture with this wool/silk/mohair blend yarn gives a plush and luxurious feel.