UPDATE June 26, 2013: WARNING! Someone has recently posted a written translation on Ravelry and is charging for it. I DID NOT USE THAT ONE.

The chart was originally found free online and was also posted here with the written pattern. (Click those links for more info.)

The original of the written pattern was in Polish (and included the chart). Personally, I would never give someone money for a pattern they did not design.

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Here are my photos showing key stages of construction. I’ve also posted 3 photos with a key/legend/glossary of the stitch symbols for the chart. Click to zoom in and save them if you need.

Ravelry thread discussing the pattern and another in the Threadies group. Chart and pattern links are included in those threads.

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UPDATE 21 Feb 2013: My motifs are about 4.25 inches per side. That is fine if your foot is petite. My long, skinny, size 11s need a much larger gauge/yarn for them to reach up around my ankle and tie properly.

I suggest working with something larger than size 3 thread (fingering weight) if you have larger or longer feet like myself.

This wasn’t a thread color that would contrast well against my skin, so from the first I planned to give them away. My niece loves them.

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Pattern notes:

Chain 6 and join in a circle using a slip stitch.

Round 1 has 6 dc and 6 ch spaces.

Round 2 starts by sl st into the first ch sp, then ch 4 which counts as the first tr st.

Then the sides of the triangle motif have 3 tr sts, ch 2, and 3 tr into the ch spaces.

At the corners, there is a ch 3, then a double tr worked into the dc, then ch 3, picot, ch 3, then a dc is worked around the post of the dtr, ch 3.

Repeat the sides and corners around, working the last dtr into the first sl st join. Finish the round by joining with a sl st in the 4th st of the beginning ch.

There should be 18 tr, 3 dtr, 3 dc, 3 picots, and 15 ch sp.

Round 3: Ch 4, then work 5 tr sts tog into the next 5 tr sts. Ch 6, then work 2 tr sts tog into the next 2 ch sps, ch 6.

Work a puff st (tr3tog into same st), ch 6, puff st, all into the corner picot.

Follow the diagram to continue making chains and triples on the sides, and the puff stitch combo at the corners. To finish, join the round with a sl st, then sl st into the next ch sp.

Round 4 (edging): ch 1, work 2 sc into the ch sp, picot, 3 sc into same ch sp. Work 3 sc, picot, 3 sc into next ch sp, and repeat around, except place 3 sc, then a loop of 19 ch sts, and 3 sc, at the bottom of the motif (instead of a sc/picot set) to use as a toe loop.

There will be 7 sc/picot sets, one toe loop set, and 7 more sc/picot sets, when finished.

For straps, sew ribbons or join new thread to crochet long chains, from the top 2 picot corners of the motif.

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UPDATE 21 Feb 2013: I used a US size D hook (3.25 mm) to crochet the chain straps of 150 sts long each.

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Definitions:

Picot: ch 3, then slip stitch into the first chain.
Puff stitch: Form 3 triple crochets together into the same stitch/space.

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Photos (top to bottom):

• Photo 1: Completed sandals.
• Photo 2: End of round 1.
• Photo 3: Shows round 2, the chain 3 right after the first picot.
• Photo 4: Also round 2, the dc around the post of the double triple stitch and the next ch 3.
• Photo 5: The completion of round 2.
• Photo 6: Shows round 3. Ch 4, tr5tog in the next 5 tr sts, ch 6, tr2tog into the 2 ch sps, ch 6.
• Photo 7: Shows rnd 3. the first puff st, ch 6, puff st into the top corner picot, ch 6.
• Photo 8: Shows rnd 3. tr2tog into the ch sps, ch 6.
• Photo 9: Still rnd 3. Tr6tog into the 6 tr sts, ch 6.
• Photo 10: Completion of rnd 3.
• Photo 11: Edging in progress. 3 sc, picot, 3 sc into each ch sp. (Don’t forget the toe loop at the bottom!)
• Photo 12: A completed motif, before straps are added.
• Photo 13: This photo is what happens when I don’t pay attention to what I’m doing, cut the thread, and weave in the ends on one of the motifs. LOL

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