Modifications: First prototype invisible i-cord tab cast on, i-cord edge, 1-row repeat for garter section using kfb increases.

Teal Deer: invisible i-cord cast-on shawl tab explained at length below. ;)

I recently made a shawl that began with a similar garter triangle, but with i-cord edges, and I loved the effect. I also have unvented a provisional i-cord cast on to go with it.

I dislike tracking RS/WS in garter, so I’m doing increases in the first half of every row.

Update March 2: just two days after starting this and being unsure whether this was the right yarn for the project, I stopped by my LYS to get better size 3 needles and fell head over heels in love with some gorgeous deep purple Sweet Fiber laceweight which I think will be perfect for this pattern. So, I’m going to put this version on hold (and maybe soak/block what I have so far) while I try the new yarn, listed as a separate project. I’ll test the second version of the invisible provisional i-cord cast on which I had initially written out below but the directions are now at my other Viagante project page.

I’m still using this project to swatch other modifications as I go, but the best solutions end up over on the other project. ;)

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Invisible I-cord Cast-On Shawl Tab

Beginning with something I’ve wanted to try since I planned it out in my head one night when I couldn’t fall asleep: a “provisional i-cord tab” (like a shawl garter tab) for lack of a better term because I think it would look slick. ;)

If you try this for yourself, be sure not to work the i-cord stitches tightly (or pull the yarn tight after slipping them) as each edge stitch has to stretch twice as far as the rest. The good news is this should also help keep the neck edge from stretching out under the weight of it when worn poncho-style.

Setup: Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, cast on 3 sts onto larger circ (+ 3 opposite-direction sts held in reserve on cable of smaller needle (or use your own provisonal cast on)).

Slide the 3 active sts along circ to the other tip, so that working yarn comes from st farthest from the needle tip, with RS facing. Careful not to twist stitches (ktbl as needed):

* kfb, k2, slip 3 sts back to left ndl, repeat from * twice more until 3 stitches have been added (6 active sts + 3 held in reserve). See the middle section of this Whimsical Knits photo tutorial, but my beginning and end are different.

Drop working yarn, slip more 3 sts to left ndl, and slide all 6 active sts along circ to other needle tip (working yarn comes from stitch farthest from tip). With RS still facing, undo provisional cast-on if applicable and slip provisional sts to left needle, ensuring sts are not twisted. (9 sts all on one needle).

If there is an excess of slack in the reserve/provisional sts, take a moment to shift the slack to the tail so the i-cord stitches are even but not tight.

Option 1 for one-row repeats after setup but with very slight assymmetry (pictured):

Without turning work, to prevent the i-cord edge from twisting in the next row: Slip 2 sts together knitwise (as if to k2tog) to right needle, twisting them together left over right, then slip them one at a time back to left needle, twisting each stich back right to left so they are seated correctly with the leading leg is in front of the needle.

Slide all stitches to other tip so working yarn comes from the stitch nearest the tip. Turn work (for the first time), and prepare to switch to smaller needle for the rest of the garter section.

Row 1 (using smaller working needle): Sl 2 with yarn in front, kfb, kfb, place maker, k to end, turn (11 sts)
Repeat row 1 once more (13 sts, centre stitch marked on each side).

Row 2: Sl 2 wyf, kfb, k to st before marker, kfb, k to end, turn

Repeat row 2 for the rest of the garter section.

Cast-on directions have only been test-knit by me so far. If you try this method, please let me know how it works!

Option 2 for 2-row repeat after setup, and better symmetry is being used on my other Viagante and explained fully on that project page) 9continuing from “… (9 sts all on one needle)” above.)

Join:

Any basic joining in the round would work, but I also experimented a little with this step. This stacked decrease join is more reinforced, to avoid a strained single strand or regular decrease taking all the strain of giving birth to a head:

Be sure to end the garter section with an equal number of stitches on each side of centre. If the side opposite the working yarn has two more sts, work row 2 once more and both sides should now be equal.

Unknit the last two stitches and return them to the left needle tip. Set up needles to join in the round, so that last two stitches of the row and the start of the row are adjacent on the left needle.

Sl last 2 sts of last row together knitwise, twisting left over right. Place new last st back on left needle, k2tog with first st of row (joining in the round), pass 2nd-last stitch from right needle over this join st, slip join st back to left needle, pass next st on left needle over join st. Four edge stitches decreased into one center st. Place end-of-round marker, slip join st back to right needle.

Body:

Join st now becomes a center buffer st between decreases at end-of-round, to match the increase side and to help avoid the ladders that often tend to develop between paired columns of decreases:

Switching to larger needle, work Body Round 1 as written, but omitting “pm” (marker is in place)
Round 2: k1 (added central st at end of round), then work round 2 as written (or with preferred increases)
Round 3: as written (or with preferred increases)

I really disliked the columns of big sloppy gaps beside the centre increase stitch, which seemed to happen from every option for increases I tried, until I realized that it was easily solved by not stacking the increases on every single row. On every second row, the increases are worked 2 sts before and after the centre:
First version immediately after garter section, with increases twisted toward centre stitch, for a neat column of several even loose stitches:
Row 2: … k to 2 stitches before marker, m1l, k 2, sl m, k centre stitch, sl m, k 2, m1r, work rest of row as written
Row 3: … k to marker, m1l, sl m, k centre stitch, sl m, m1r, work rest of row as written

Second version starts an inch after garter section, with increases twisted away from centre stitch, for smooth and clean and only teeny-tiny holes when stretched:
Row 2: … k until 2 stitches before marker, m1r, k 2, sl m, k centre stitch, sl m, k 2, m1l, work rest of row as written
Row 3: … k to marker, m1r, sl m, k centre stitch, sl m, m1l, work rest of row as written

(Using m1r and m1l as explained in this phototutorial.)