This is a mystery knit along I found on Facebook. I decided to jump in when I learned that I have taken a class from the author, Jen Lucas. I did not learn that the project is a shawl until I downloaded the yarn requirements.
I learned from the Facebook group that this mystery knit along happened last December. All three sets of instructions are available now. I printed out a couple of complete copies, one to keep pristine and one to write all over.
First issue with the author: there’s no clue as to what should be color A and what should be color B. After getting it wrong, I ripped it back to zero having realized I needed to cast on with the lighter color.
Second issue with the author: garter stitch edge throughout. I don’t like the appearance. My first change: the last stitch of every row is purled, the first stitch of every row is slipped as if to knit.
Third issue with the author: the three stitch edging between the selvage and the first yarn over is too narrow. I added on.
Fourth issue with the author: the center increase set (M1R, SM, K1, SM, M1L) causes some real difficulty with the markers in the way and the increases either side of a single stitch. I chose to switch to a more attractive yarn over increase.
Being the intelligent person that I am, I don’t think I need a marker on each side of the same stitch to know that it is the center stitch. I left off a marker after the center stitch on the right side rows.
Now I started to truly redesign Jen’s pattern. Instead of having the center stitch be Garter Stitch like the others, I decided that on wrong side rows I would slip it with the yarn in front. Now I have a pair of yarn overs on each side of what appears to be an elongated center Stockinette Stitch.
After working a bit, I could see that the selvage yarn overs did not look as nice as the center set. I ripped everything out and went back to the drawing board. I now have the definitive cover band version of Jen’s pattern.
With lighter color, CO 4 Sts.
Row A (RS): K3, P1
Row B (WS): Slip 1 Knitwise (SL1K), K3
Rows C and E: repeat Row A
Rows D and F: repeat Row B. At end of row F, do NOT turn your work. Instead as described in the original pattern, rotate clockwise and pick up and knit three stitches along the selvage, rotate clockwise again, along the cast on, pick up and knit three stitches, pick up and purl the last stitch.
Now you’re ready to turn your work and do my version of Row 1 (RS) SL1K, K2, M1, K1, Place Marker (PM), YO, K1, YO, PM, K1, YO, K1, YO, PM, K1, M1, K2, P1
(17 stitches…throughout the rest of the pattern my version will have four more stitches than the original pattern because the selvage is five stitches on each side, not three.)
Row 2 (WS): SL1K, K3, SL1 WYIF, SM, K to 1 ST before next marker, SL1 WYIF, SM, K to next marker, SM, SL1 WYIF, K3, P1
Row 3: SL1K, K4, SM, YO, K to next marker, YO, SM, K1, YO, K to next marker, YO, SM, K4, P1 (21 Sts).
Just as in original pattern, repeat rows 2 and 3 24 more times, 117 stitches.
When you come to the chart and change colors, don’t break yarn, just add the new color. Later you will be told when to break your yarn.
The chart is worked the same except for the three stitches at each side are changed to the five in the pattern you have been working, the M1 increases are now YO’s, and the center stitch on the WS row is now SL1 WYIF.
03-19-2021 More Pattern Changes
I’m up to 97 stitches per row and I feel I want to add a Faroese shape so it will stay better on the shoulders. I think now is a good time to begin because the selvage reaches from the tip of one shoulder to the other.
On the right side of the work, I marked a center stitch for the left side at 21 stitches past the first marker and a center stitch for the right side at 22 stitches past the second marker. (Trust me, with my earlier changes to the pattern I am correct. I actually have a Bachelor’s Degree in Mathematics.)
My plan is to make a pair of increases either side of each new marker (on the right side rows only) with a Knit in the front and back of the stitch increase. I believe that the garter stitch will hide them.
I also put in a couple of horizontal row markers so that if I don’t like this, I know how far back to rip out.
03-27-2021
I forgot to mention in my last note that I have eight increases every other row now, instead of four.
The shoulder shaping increases are working out well, the garter stitch made them barely noticeable.
I accidentally changed Chart A by working rows 9-10 the same as rows 5-6 instead of rows 1-2, but I like the results so I am going with it. I am repeating rows 5-8 instead of 1-8.
After 40 rows of the chart there will be 297 Stitches. I plan to discontinue the extra shoulder increases six inches after I started them, so the horizontal markers stay.
I had ordered one extra ball of each color, but I believe with all my changes I will run out of yarn before the end of the instructions. That’s okay as the intended recipient is 5’2” and thin.
If I decide to make this again, I will slip the first stitch of every row purlwise for a better match with the slipped stitches adjacent to the yarn overs.
04-04-2021
Finished chart A at 297 sts. Discontinued shoulder increases at this point. From now on my stitch count will be 104 more than the pattern.
04-10-2021
I have gotten to the point where I am beginning the second time where color B is joined and one redoes chart A. I am going to make another change to the pattern. I prefer Faroese shawls to triangle shawls because I hate to sit on the point of a shawl. To approximate the blunted point I am changing the increase in the middle of each right side row. Instead of YO, SM, K1, SM, YO, (yes, I put back the marker after the center stitch), the new version is SM, YO, K to the next marker, YO, SM, continue as per the directions for the rest of the row.
Wrong side rows I will slip the stitch after the first center YO and the one before the second center YO
Again, I am reserving the right to change my mind if I don’t like the look.
05-29-2021
I decided not to do the last lace repeat because Naomi is only 5’2”. Bound off using JSSBO.