180+2 ch (200 + 2 for wider shrug)
181 sc foundation row, ch 1 turn

sc 6 blo (cuff), dc, ch 1, dc across until 6 sts left, sc 6 blo (cuff), ch 1 turn - repeat (17 rows)

Last row, sc across.
20” head opening, 38” chest opening

For a slightly longer sleeve, add another 10-20 stitches (even number). Cuff size is good, add more pattern stitches. (For a tighter cuff and puff sleeve, add more, looser cuff add less.)