My gauge seems to be pretty close with the size H hook. Remember to keep that foundation sc row loose. This particular stitch pattern is rather stretchy, especially with that foundation sc row (much more elasticky than if this started with a chain row instead).

Making the medium size for the body, but had quite a few modifications to the sleeve holes and sleeves (to make them roomier). I also did not make the sleeves separately -- I worked from the shoulder down, in the round. Similarly, I worked the front trim AFTER joining the shoulders. Detailed notes below in case I make this again. The size was absolutely perfect! Initially, I thought I would make the front trim a lot wider, to make it more shawl-like, but decided to keep it as-is.. was just too perfect to possibly mess that up.

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First hank got through 17 rows of the body.

VERY IMPORTANT
Review the size/dimensions schematic carefully while making this. It’s easy to modify sizes here or there, depending on your goal.

Modified the pattern so that the arm hole is 15” (aligning with size 1X actually), while maintaining size M for most everything else. Note - I don’t think the schematic figures the 8 skipped sts at the bottom of the arm hole into the sleevel hole dimensions… that probably adds about an inch. Can consider this in the future, but the end result that I made turned out perfectly.

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BOTTOM

• Following as for size M. I ended after the 47 rows, but that only got me to 20” (should have been 21” if gauged perfectly according to the schematic, so, my row gauge was a tiny bit off), but I actually think 20” is preferable. Otherwise, could have added 2 more rows.

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RIGHT FRONT

• Goal was 7.5” (to make sleeve hole about 15”), but keeping the same number of stitches, starting with 30 sts, decreasing to 26 sts. With 7.5” on right and left fronts, this should result in an upper arm hole of 15”.
• Modified pattern to add 2 more rows just prior to neck shaping (so, I repeated rows 2/3 until I hit 9 total rows, or about 7.5”).
• For neck shaping, I did a total of 9 rows, including the “last row” of scs. This row count actually aligns with size 1X (helpful for modifying the sleeves).
• All told, the right front was 18 total rows (will need to make sure the back and left front are also 18 rows).
• Considering whole piece, there are 65 rows from bottom to top (32 dc and 33 sc).

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LEFT FRONT

• Follow same idea as for right front (reversing the side in which the decreases go)

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SHOULDER SEAMING
Used same invisible method as this other pattern of mine (see pics):
https://www.ravelry.com/projects/toriellen/crazy-patchwor...

I decided to pick up stitches for the trim and for the sleeves, AFTER seaming the shoulders.

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TRIM (after seaming shoulders, working this continuously) -- goal is an odd number of sts, so the sc/dcs are symmetric on each side, so first and last sts are the same type of st.

• ROW 1:

  • Along each side, main idea is to work two scs per each dc row, and one sc per each sc row. Along the left and right sides, this equates to 97 scs (2x32 dc rows + 33 sc rows) per side.
  • Along the top back (there are 22 unworked sts there), I did 25 scs: one sc in first corner where side meets back, 23 scs (there are 22 unworked scs here, but put two into one of the middle sts to get 23), then one more sc in the next corner.
  • All told, the trim will have 217 sts (97 on first side, 25 along back, 97 on other side).

• ROW 2: ch1 and turn: sc, dc, sc, dc…. repeating (ending with sc, which is why I wanted an odd number of sts in the trim)

• ROW 3: ch1 and turn: dc, sc, dc, sc… repeating (ending with dc). So, you’re working scs into the dcs in row below, and dcs into the scs in row below. Always start the row with a ch1 (regardless if you’re starting with sc or dc).

Repeat this pattern for 10 total rows. Will do the round of sc trim around the entire thing at the very end (so I can see if I want to add more rows of trim to make more shawl-like).

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SLEEVES
Note - try the garment on occasionally to check size (to see if you want it shorter/longer or tighter in the cuff).

• Round 1 (RS):

  • General idea, work 2 scs per dc row edge, and 1 sc per sc row edge (and work 1 sc per each skipped sc along the bottom of sleeve hole). Based on the number of rows around my sleeve hole (which I sketched out first), this amounted to 27 sts on each front/back side plus the 8 on the bottom (total 62 sts).
  • With RS facing, work the 62 scs around arm hole, starting in the 4th (of 8) sc along the bottom. Join (put marker in first and last st of the round to keep track). DO NOT TURN here, so that the dc round is established on the right side (RS).

• Round 2 (RS): ch2 (does not count as st), working in FLO, dc around, working dc2tog in LAST two sts (61 dcs). Join and TURN (will now be joining and turning after each round).

• Round 3 (WS): ch1 (does not count as st), working in FLO, sc around (61 scs). Join and turn.

• Round 4 (RS): ch2 (does not count as st), working in FLO, dc2tog over FIRST 2 sts, dc around to end (60 dcs). Join and turn.

• Round 5 (WS): repeat round 3.

Repeat rounds 2-5, keeping track that the dc2tog alternates between end vs beginning of round every other decrease round. This will keep the decreases relatively centered along bottom of arm. You’ll want your very last round of the sleeve (before trim) to be an sc round.

After the initial round 1, I repeated pattern rounds 2-5 eleven times: 41 total rounds. Starting st count was 62, and this decreased the total sts to 40. If you want a tighter cuff, decrease more / more frequently.

After last sc round, don’t fasten off, will go right into the trim. The first round of trim assumes an even number of sts (but can always add in another decrease if needed).

Trim rounds for sleeve (I did a total of 3 rounds)
1: Join, turn, ch1, (sc, dc) around.
2: Join, turn, ch1, (sc, dc) around. This will be working scs into the dcs in previous round, and dcs into scs in previous round (need an even number of sts for this to work).
3: Repeat round 2.

I kept trying this on as it grew, and the length here was perfect for me. See pic. Sleeve length 19” (unblocked). This is shorter than the original pattern schematic

I purchased 9 hanks of yarn, and I used 7 (6 full hanks, and just part of the 7th).

Note to self: to determine which is the inside of the garment, look for ridge where the sleeve row joined the shoulder (see pic).