3.75mm and 4mm for body, 3.5 for inner hem
3.25mm to pick up stitches around neck and armholes
3mm to knit underside of collar and cuffs

gauge 20:28 on 4mm needles

pattern yarn is fingering weight w recommended gauge 26-28sts

previous tinde swatch on 4mm gave 20sts.

4cm - 10 rows
12cm - 30 rows

armholes - pick up 119 stitches on 3.25mm needle. Knit 8 rounds. Change to 3mm needle, purl one round, knit 8 rounds

Back yoke depth
12 rows contiguous shaping
14 rows equivalent of contiguous and neck (13-26)
16 rows equivalent of neck shaping (27-42)
2 rows equivalent of union rows (43-44)
36 rows (12cm) (45-80)
12 rows underarm shaping (81-92)
total - 92

pattern neckline
12 rows contiguous shaping
Row 13 - Neckline shaping starts on row 13, is 30 rows deep (through row 42)
Neckline depth is 46% of yoke depth (measured to end of underarm shaping)

neckline -
26 rows contiguous shaping
34 rows neck shaping (27-60)
2 rows Union row (61-62)
18 rows even (63-80)
12 rows underarm shaping (81-92)

17 aug 2024 - ok, actually finished. Sewed down all the folded hems, finally.
11 dec - sewed down left armscye trim and neck band. I think the right armscye trim may be a row too short.
6 dec - and finally did the same for R armhole. All knitting finished!
6 oct - picked up around L armhole on 3.25mm needle. Knit 8 rounds.
5 oct - inner neckline - worked 5 rounds on 3mm needle
2 oct - picked up around neckline, 3/4 sts on 3.25mm needles. Worked 5 rounds.
14 sep - finished neckline last night, ripped it out today. 5/6 pick up rate is too much. Back on length, have placed marker and worked about 2cm. Will work to 5cm and consider whether this is the length I want. Just measured. Even without neck edging at 51cm so yes, 3 more cm and long enough. Should keep checking as I knit though. Unh!!
11 sep - finished second skein and washed on weekend. Picked up sts at neckline using 3.5mm needle. Purl one round. Slip first st of next round p-wise, knit 4 rounds. Purl one round, change to 3mm needle. Have knit one round.
9 sep - almost through the second skein. Might put it on waste yarn and give it a wash. But do neckline and armholes first. (Also swapped back to 3.75mm needle which, oops, I think I had used for the upper fronts and back)
3 sep - just working away at the length now. Pattern says 24 cm below armhole for this size but I may like to have it a bit longer. If I do a folded hem, they will be more length. More than halfway through the available yarn.
27 aug - worked a couple of rounds then worked 7 sets of short rows.
24 aug - fronts joined, back and front joined
23 aug - completed upper fronts. Started neckline shaping immediately after contiguous incrs (on row 27 thus).
+1 every 6th x2
+1 every 4 x1
+1 every 2 x9
Total - 34 rows
Union row is row 61. Need to work through to 80.
21 aug - ok, back is now 18 rows plus 36 rows past the end of the contiguous shaping. And another 12 rows with underarm shaping. Upper back complete.
20 aug 2023 - gave it a good steam bath. Not sure what I was on about w measurements last night - must have been tired! Have knit 30 rows, it’s almost 12cm. Might do just 2 more. Maybe 4 …
Unh, almost finished the underarm shaping when I realised that I’d missed out 18 rows. Frogged underarm shaping back, marked 18 rows, already had 16 more. knit further 14 => 30 rows. Need to measure whether that’s 12cm. Armhole shaping is 12 more rows.
19 aug - cast on. Completed all contiguous incrs without starting neck line shaping. 30 rows on back. Will need 4 more to reach 12cm. If gan is dry tomorrow, might wash this. Or at least good steam.