Madelinetosh sport on 6s has a gauge around 4.66 per inch (for me).

With 5s, 5.25 spi.

She wants it with around a 42” chest.

Cable chart is 28 sts wide.

CO 102 sts with scrap yarn.

1 (WS): Purl a row in gray.

2 (RS): Knit a row, adding in red intarsia yarn, placing markers, and first row of cable chart:

10|28|1|24|1|28|10

3 (WS): P to marker, m1L, sm, {cable chart}, sm, m1R, p to marker, m1L, sm, p to marker, sm, m1R, p to marker, m1L, sm, {cable chart}, sm, m1R, p to end. (6 increases: 11|28|3|24|3|28|11) (108 sts).

4 (RS): K1, kfab, k to marker, m1R, sm, {cable chart}, sm, m1L, k to marker, m1R, sm, k to marker, sm, m1L, k to marker, m1R, sm, {cable chart}, sm, m1L, k until 2 sts remain, kfab, knit last st. (8 increases: 13|28|5|24|5|28|13) (116 sts).

Repeat rounds 3 & 4 one time.

5: 14|28|7|24|7|28|14
6: 16|28|9|24|9|28|16

Remove center neck markers.

7 (WS): P to marker, m1L, sm, {cable chart}, sm, m1R, p to marker, m1L, sm, {cable chart}, sm, m1R, p to end. (4 increases: 17|28|44|28|17) (134 sts).

8 (RS): K1, kfab, knit to marker, m1R, sm, {cable chart}, sm, m1L, k to marker, m1R, sm, {cable chart}, sm, m1L, k until 2 sts remain, kfab, knit last stitch. (6 increases: 19|28|46|28|19) (140 sts).

Repeat rows 7 and 8 until 80 back sts.

9 (WS): 20|28|48|28|20
10 (RS): 22|28|50|28|22
11 (WS): 23|28|52|28|23
12 (RS): 25|28|54|28|25
13 (WS): 26|28|56|28|26
14 (RS): 28|28|58|28|28
15 (WS): 29|28|60|28|29
16 (RS): 31|28|62|28|31
17 (WS): 32|28|64|28|32
18 (RS): 34|28|66|28|34
19 (WS): 35|28|68|28|35
20 (RS): 37|28|70|28|37
21 (WS): 38|28|72|28|38
22 (RS): 40|28|74|28|40
23 (WS): 41|28|76|28|41
24 (RS): 43|28|78|28|43
25 (WS): 44|28|80|28|44

26 (RS): K1, k to marker, m1R, sm, {cable chart}, sm, m1L, k to marker, m1R, sm, {cable chart}, sm, m1L, k until end of row. (4 increases: 45|28|82|28|45) (228 sts).

27: Join in the round. Knit to first marker. This will now be the beginning of round. Place beginning of round marker {BR marker}. {cable chart}, sm, k to marker, sm, {cable chart}, sm, k until end of row. (228 sts).

28: sm BR, m1R, place marker (regular), {cable chart, with cables in reverse}, sm, m1L, place marker $, knit to next marker, place marker $ on right needle, m1R (between markers), sm, {cable chart, with cables in reverse}, sm, m1L, place marker $, knit to end of round.

29: knit around, doing cable chart in pattern and slipping all markers.

30: sm BR, m1R, knit to marker, sm, {cable chart, with cables in reverse}, sm, knit to marker $, m1L, sm$, knit to marker $, sm $, m1R, knit to marker, sm, {cable chart, with cables in reverse}, sm, knit to marker $, m1L, sm $, knit to end of round.

Repeat rows 29 and 30 until sleeves (between $ markers, including 28 st cable pattern), is 68 sts wide.

At $ marker, slip 68 sts to waste yarn, and CO 10 sts with backwards loop. Repeat for other sleeve. Knit body in the round (__ sts). Mark side seams, and after __ rows, decrease front and back each side. Repeat to waist, then do increases.

For sleeves, slide sts off waste yarn onto 16” size 5 circular needles. Pick up 10 sts underarm, for 78 sts total (25|28|25). Knit in the round, following cable chart. Center marker. Decreases around every 12 rounds.

For sleeves had to vary decreases to work with cables in ribbing. Did one decrease on each side of cable panel, and two at beginning of round marker. Knit 7 rows of ribbing. Then cast off black and kept red live, doing 2 backward loop cast on stitches for each red column, which I immediately cast off like other stitches, behind each red cable. Knit an extra 4 rows in red for tucking under.

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90 sts front (17.14”); 82 sts back (15.62”). Total of 172 sts (32.76”). Want to end up with around 220 sts, so need to add another 48 sts. If cast on 10 under each arm, that leaves 28 more to add. Body increases add 4 sts per row, so 7 body increases would get there.

Right now sleeves are 66 sts wide. If add 10, that makes them 76 sts each (14.47”). Seems too small.

Top of shoulder to live sts is 9” now. Need to split by 11” at the latest. 7 rows of body increases = 14 rows = 1.75”, so that’s as much additional height as I want.*

Do body increases every other round for the first 8 rounds (4 rows of increases = 16 sts increased), then did body increases every round for the next 3 rows (3 rows of increases = 12 sts increased). Total of 11 rows instead of 14, allowing me to do one more round of sleeve increases.*